Glenn
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posted on 24/7/03 at 08:38 PM |
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chrome-moly steel wishbones
ok guys a few problems, please help
I have bought a some of polybushes from luego (pukka stuff) and im looking for some 33.7mm CDS with a 3mm wall for the sleeves but having trouble with
my local steel stockholder. they don't supply seamless
I spoke to the very helpful people at luego and they say seamless isn't critical but that I should weld over (I.e. join the tubes) over the seam
which sounds ok.
it has been suggested that I use chrome-moly by a few engineering/racer type's which sounds like a good idea and since I can have it
Tig'ed easily enough (for free) then why not ?
what do you guys reckon ? use std ERW for the outer polybush tubes? can chro-moly be welded to mild for the adjustable end's ??
bit confused really, suggestions please guys.
BTW if this sounds a little muddled, please excuse me as im a little ill ATM
Cheers
Glenn
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Rorty
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posted on 25/7/03 at 05:07 AM |
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Dear Muddled......
I always use some form of welded tube for the PU bush tubes, as the interior weld seam helps to "key" the PU bushes, preventing them from
rotating in the tubes.
As Luego suggest, you can orientate the weld seams to face the fishmouth in the wishbone tubes.
They wont come apart anyway.
The material dimensions you outline however, do not exist in CDS, and would also rule out ERW (although 31.8 X 2 ERW would suit your bushes, and
I've used it for this purpose before).
What you describe is almost a standard size of NB Pipe (ordinary black pipe). It is available in 33.7 OD, but not in 3mm wall. The wall thicknesses
available for this diameter are: 3.2, 4, and 4.5mm.
Check the OD of your PU bushes before you buy any more steel, though the fact you quoted 33.7 OD, I think you'll find the 3.2 wall NB Pipe will
be what you're after.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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James
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posted on 25/7/03 at 11:10 AM |
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Have you tried buying the tube from Luego? For a few quid extra they might even give you some of their pre-cut tubes and save you *loads* of
bother!
I bought my bushes from MK so it seemed logical to get the matching tube from them too. Unfortunately I bought one long tube and getting each piece
identical and the faces perfectly flat was bloody hard work!
If you have a lathe of course it wouldn't be too hard!
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Glenn
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posted on 25/7/03 at 12:18 PM |
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Cheers Rorty,
shop4steel.com sell 33.7@3mmwall which i presumed would be available from my local stockholder and hoped would
be available in seamless, unfortunatlly not
I dont have a mic handy but measuring with a rather doggy old teel rule the outer diameter of the PU bush that
fits in the tube is about 28mm so 33.7@3 would clamp the bush nicely.
i'll keep an eye out for some NB Pipe, cheers again
James: yer, did think f buying from leugo, but i would like to make as much as possible got to keep with the locost
theme somewhere luckly i have a lathe, and a few mills and even a couple of spark erouder i'll save that for
the lotus 7 engraved brake disks.
TA
Glenn
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GasGasGas
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posted on 25/7/03 at 05:10 PM |
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Nominal bore is also called BS1387 or British standard pipe (bsp).Nominal Bore True Pipe id Nominal Bore True Pipe id
½" 15.76
¾" 20.96
1" 26.64
1¼" 35.08
1½" 40.94
Am using it to build a roll cage & needs 12 ton pipe press to bend it so should put up with Locost stress and strains.
See photo archive for the full sizing specs.
[Edited on 25/7/03 by GasGasGas]
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Jon Ison
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posted on 25/7/03 at 08:53 PM |
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just one word of caution on wishbones, if god forbid the worst happens and you have a iccle crash its much better the wishbones rip off rather than be
so strong as to take the chassis out too...
maybe more so on a race car though, its far easier to replace a corner than have to rebuild a chassis...
there thats my 2p worth
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James
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posted on 25/7/03 at 09:34 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Glenn
James: yer, did think f buying from leugo, but i would like to make as much as possible got to keep with the locost
theme somewhere luckly i have a lathe, and a few mills and even a couple of spark erouder i'll save that for
the lotus 7 engraved brake disks.
TA
Glenn
Hi Glenn,
I know what you mean- it's constantly a toss up between buying and saving time and money!
My main point was just buy the tube from Luego- you've gotta buy some from somewhere so it might as well be there and save hunting around.
Getting them to cut it was just a bonus idea!
After I'd marked out (ruler and scribe) cut and then trued (set square and file) the ends of 22 of them I wished I'd bought them!
Good Luck whatever you choose,
James
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Rorty
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posted on 26/7/03 at 02:53 AM |
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Jon Ison:
quote:
...its much better the wishbones rip off rather than be so strong as to take the chassis out too... its far easier to replace a corner than have to
rebuild a chassis...
I agree wholeheartedly about not destroying the chassis, though I put a fair bit of time into my wishbones. I prefer the rod ends to give way first.
All I have to do then, is hand over a number of dollars to replace them!
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Glenn
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posted on 27/7/03 at 01:31 PM |
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certinally food for thought, I have considered where things should break but i'll just try and avoid the crashes
Rorty, just had a look in your photo archive, some nice Tig welding there, well done old chap
who is the supplier for the cast stainless adjuster and Weld-in ferules ??
Cheers
Glenn
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Rorty
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posted on 29/7/03 at 05:39 AM |
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Glenn, thanks for the kind words. AFAIR, the stainless adjusters are available in the UK from one of the big hot rod builders/parts suppliers, but I
can't remember who. I think I used to drive to pick them up from around the Dorset/Hampshire area, if that helps?
I have my machinist make those ferules for me, but then again, any self respecting kit-car/suspension emporium should have them.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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