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Author: Subject: Outer Races
greggors84

posted on 22/12/03 at 05:37 PM Reply With Quote
Outer Races

Whats the best way to remover the outer bearing races from the hub. I have a puller but the claws wont fit in the tiny gaps between the race and the hub.

Thanks





Chris

The Magnificent 7!

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paulf

posted on 22/12/03 at 07:39 PM Reply With Quote
If the outer race is stuck solid there are a number of ways to remove it.
You could use an air grinder or dremel to cut a notch in it and then split it with a chisel.
Or run a bead of weld around the inside of the race, after coling it will have shrunk and pulled in the bearing. It will then either full out or else tap out easily with a punch from behind.
Another method is weld a bar to the race and pull it out with a slide hammer.
If it is in an alloy housing often warming the housing will be enough to allow the bearing to be shocked out.
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by greggors84
Whats the best way to remover the outer bearing races from the hub. I have a puller but the claws wont fit in the tiny gaps between the race and the hub.

Thanks

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andyps

posted on 22/12/03 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
Usually they can be knocked out with a drift - I haven't done Sierra ones but generally there are a couple of cut outs in the shoulder for this purpose. Just ensure you don't use a hardened drift for this if you intend to re-use the outers.





Andy

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Peteff

posted on 23/12/03 at 12:29 AM Reply With Quote
There is enough shoulder to hit it from the back with a parallel punch. Do a bit at a time, one side then the other then turn it over to get the other one out.

yours, Pete.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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James

posted on 23/12/03 at 02:09 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by andyps
Just ensure you don't use a hardened drift for this if you intend to re-use the outers.


Seconded! I used a hard one and damaged the outer casing a bit. I sorted it with judicious application of emery/dremel as it wasn't bad but be careful as it was a pain to sort out.

Putting in the new one straight is the hard bit!

James

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andyps

posted on 24/12/03 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
I sorted it with judicious application of emery/dremel as it wasn't bad but be careful as it was a pain to sort out.


The trouble with that is when you have a case hardened bearing (as many tapered roller bearings are) is that you have actually gone through the hard outer shell at this stage and are using an un-hardened surface.





Andy

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James

posted on 28/12/03 at 12:29 AM Reply With Quote
Hmmm, AndyPS, I think I mis-read your (1st) post!

Didn't realise you meant the bearing outers- thought you meant the hub carrier.

I have replaced the bearing outers (the tapered ring) it is the ring inside the carrier (that the bearing outer sits on) I damaged a small amount.
AFAIK I've not removed anything that can have any effect on the seating of the bearing outer- the amount I've removed was not that significant... I hope...

I was under the impression that the bearings and their outers were matched pairs so it was important to always change the outer when you change the roller as otherwise it'll have worn unevenly!
As the outer race seems to come supplied with the replacement roller then you might as well!

Cheers,

James

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andyps

posted on 29/12/03 at 12:48 PM Reply With Quote
Unless you are a major manufacturer you will always buy a bearing "complete" - with inner (the inner ring, rollers and cage) and outer.

The inner and outer are not matched for automotive applications, although if one part is worn, the other is likely to be past its best so should always be replaced together.

I used to work for Timken, the leading manufacturer of tapered roller bearings (at least they were when I was working for them) and all their bearings were "case hardened" - they have a thin very hard outer shell, with less hard core which helps to absorb shocks etc. If you grind away too much you can go through the outer shell and therefore weaken the bearing. Not all manufacturers do this however - most are through hardened and therefore this does not apply.

Hope this helps.





Andy

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