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Author: Subject: Self centering
myke pocock

posted on 14/3/09 at 09:39 PM Reply With Quote
Self centering

Took the car for a shakedown run. It doesnt quite self centre, slightly worse on LH lock than RH. I have the front tyres up to 30 PSI with neutral camber and neutral toe in/toe out. What should I do to improve it for SVA. Can always tweek further after the test.
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nitram38

posted on 14/3/09 at 09:41 PM Reply With Quote
Do a search..................................






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nick205

posted on 14/3/09 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
Slight toe out (1-1.5 deg) should help and possibly a little negative camber too.






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mistergrumpy

posted on 14/3/09 at 10:05 PM Reply With Quote
Toe out, 30-35 PSI and check the rack's not too tight. Loosen the slipper on it or whip it off and clean and oil the lot then put it back together but not too tight.






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nitram38

posted on 14/3/09 at 10:40 PM Reply With Quote
Do you want to live?
Then do a search and fix the problem......more castor is the only safe way to have a good car.






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mistergrumpy

posted on 14/3/09 at 10:45 PM Reply With Quote
He only wants it to pass SVA. It's a home made car at the end of the day, built in a garage.
Besides there's a few on here who don't have enough caster but have no problems.






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twybrow

posted on 14/3/09 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mistergrumpy
He only wants it to pass SVA. It's a home made car at the end of the day, built in a garage.
Besides there's a few on here who don't have enough caster but have no problems.


Nicely put. If you have SVA in the next few weeks, remaking wishbones/mountings would be pushing it!

When you say loosen the slipper, what do you mean? Is this a case of taking off the little plate on the rack, and tinkering around inside? Mine is a new quick rack, and I am concerned it is quite tight....

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mistergrumpy

posted on 14/3/09 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
For me it was too tight. There's a little plate just to the side of the column attachment. I undid it and it was a bit clagged up so I cleaned it all and found a servicing guide on someones site. I added some oil then made a gasket out of card to just stand the plate very slightly higher than it should be and it helped a lot. Any excess oil was spat out. Now I can move the wheels freely by hand whereas I couldn't before.






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BenB

posted on 15/3/09 at 01:08 AM Reply With Quote
Personally I don't see the whole need for self-centering. My car doesn't really self-center. It passed SVA on a fluke. But it's fine. In all the drives I've done, all the track day slaloms etc I've never once thought "if only I had more self-centering".

So do all the usual bodges to get it through sVA and then get on and enjoy it

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mangogrooveworkshop

posted on 15/3/09 at 01:59 AM Reply With Quote
My rust2 rome pug had better self centering than the Indy till i sorted the bones.
It was a very tough drive with out the feedback as you had to do the driving both ways.
As the man says make sure the racks free and the steering column alignment is straight and free running

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nitram38

posted on 15/3/09 at 06:35 AM Reply With Quote
It took me 2 hours to re-make my top 2 bones and it transformed the car from one that felt vague to one where I had feedback through the steering.
Also there are lots of sva testers who read this forum and are aware of the toe out "bodge".
Not only do the testers check for centering, they drive the cars.
If they think that the car feels vague, they will fail your car.
The problem with bad setups is that people will still drive the car and "compensate" for any poor handling.
It is not until you drive a good setup, you realise how bad yours actually is.
It is up to you, but personally would make an attempt to re-make the bones and if I ran out of time, then try the toe out rather than just fudge it.
At least you will be part way to having them ready and can change them after sva.






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whitestu

posted on 15/3/09 at 09:24 AM Reply With Quote
Wouldn't it be sensible to accurately measue the actual amount of castor the car actually has before remaking wishbones?

Mine doesn't self centre that much, but has plenty of steering feel and isn't vague. In fact it is anything but vague.


Stu


Stu

[Edited on 15/3/09 by whitestu]

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mistergrumpy

posted on 15/3/09 at 09:41 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

If they think that the car feels vague, they will fail your car


No they won't, come on. As long as the car attempts to self centre they usually pass it. For loads on here that's meant that the steering wheel twitches only slightly back and it's passed.


quote:

It is up to you, but personally would make an attempt to re-make the bones and if I ran out of time, then try the toe out rather than just fudge it


That's good advice though and what I hope to do something in the form of what Hellfire's done.
(P.S. Just because I'm quoting you Martin I'm not trying to dismiss you or start an arguement, I don't want it to come across like that )






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NS Dev

posted on 15/3/09 at 02:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
Personally I don't see the whole need for self-centering. My car doesn't really self-center. It passed SVA on a fluke. But it's fine. In all the drives I've done, all the track day slaloms etc I've never once thought "if only I had more self-centering".

So do all the usual bodges to get it through sVA and then get on and enjoy it


Yea but..............yours is a Stuart Taylor Chassis and Wishbones isn't it???

If it is then it has a vast amount more castor than most of the others, he didn't use "book" geometry!





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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NS Dev

posted on 15/3/09 at 02:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
It took me 2 hours to re-make my top 2 bones and it transformed the car from one that felt vague to one where I had feedback through the steering.
Also there are lots of sva testers who read this forum and are aware of the toe out "bodge".
Not only do the testers check for centering, they drive the cars.
If they think that the car feels vague, they will fail your car.
The problem with bad setups is that people will still drive the car and "compensate" for any poor handling.
It is not until you drive a good setup, you realise how bad yours actually is.
It is up to you, but personally would make an attempt to re-make the bones and if I ran out of time, then try the toe out rather than just fudge it.
At least you will be part way to having them ready and can change them after sva.


Completely agree.

My SVA tester at nottingham did drive the car, and made his assessment based on his thoughts, not some silly procedure, and quite right he was too. These guys are not stupid in my experience. They ae mechanics with suitable knowledge!





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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MikeR

posted on 15/3/09 at 04:19 PM Reply With Quote
Just out of curiosity, can anyone remember how much the top wishbone was supposed to be offset by?

I've got in my head it was something like 5 to 7 in the book and it wants to be double. Just can't remember if the book was mm or degrees. Quick measure and mine are about 10mm off the centre line.

Ie outside edge to outside edge is 220mm, so centre line is 110mm, centre of TRE is about 120mm.

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twybrow

posted on 15/3/09 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev

Yea but..............yours is a Stuart Taylor Chassis and Wishbones isn't it???

If it is then it has a vast amount more castor than most of the others, he didn't use "book" geometry!


I have a ST chassis - so I hope this is true....! Mine is going to SVA in 2 weeks, and I have been trying to set a slight amount of toe out today (by eye!). Hopefully, the geometry should be better than the majority.... Fingers crossed!

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whitestu

posted on 15/3/09 at 10:13 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Yea but..............yours is a Stuart Taylor Chassis and Wishbones isn't it???
If it is then it has a vast amount more castor than most of the others, he didn't use "book" geometry!



And it still doens't self centre much.

Maybe there is more to getting the car to self centre than just castor?

Stu

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myke pocock

posted on 15/3/09 at 10:26 PM Reply With Quote
Good God, didnt expect all that. Thanks for the helpful comments and no thanks for the sarky ones. As I said its almost right, just wanted to improve it a bit. Certainly aint going to make up new wishbones.
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nitram38

posted on 16/3/09 at 03:54 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by myke pocock
Good God, didnt expect all that. Thanks for the helpful comments and no thanks for the sarky ones. As I said its almost right, just wanted to improve it a bit. Certainly aint going to make up new wishbones.



Why do they ask for a car to cenre on your sva test?
Simple, it is a safety requirement.
Yes, while you drive your car in the first few days it will feel great and the car will all be new to you.
The main reason for the centering is coming out of bends your steering will unwind by it's self and make driving easier on your arms. Apart from it being a smoother drive, it is more stable.
There have been a couple of threads in the last few days where people are driving cars with toe out and are complaining of the car wandering and being out of control.
This will be you once you start driving your car properly.
Your choice and your accident.






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twybrow

posted on 16/3/09 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38

Why do they ask for a car to cenre on your sva test?
Simple, it is a safety requirement.
Yes, while you drive your car in the first few days it will feel great and the car will all be new to you.
The main reason for the centering is coming out of bends your steering will unwind by it's self and make driving easier on your arms. Apart from it being a smoother drive, it is more stable.
There have been a couple of threads in the last few days where people are driving cars with toe out and are complaining of the car wandering and being out of control.
This will be you once you start driving your car properly.
Your choice and your accident.


Nitram - not exactly a helpful response there. We all know there are sections of the SVA test that we have to adhere to, that have no long term relavance to our cars (or are you going to keep all of your additional silencers, cats, emissions mapping, nut covers etc etc on your car?). I agree, a car that won't self centre would feel odd, but we don't need the amateur dramatics to prove the point. Just as you are doing, we all make modifications for the test, that get replaced/tweaked/fall off after the test. Maybe this is the scenario myke is in....? Just a thought....

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NS Dev

posted on 16/3/09 at 01:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev

Yea but..............yours is a Stuart Taylor Chassis and Wishbones isn't it???

If it is then it has a vast amount more castor than most of the others, he didn't use "book" geometry!


I have a ST chassis - so I hope this is true....! Mine is going to SVA in 2 weeks, and I have been trying to set a slight amount of toe out today (by eye!). Hopefully, the geometry should be better than the majority.... Fingers crossed!


Shouls be ok, mine was with no tweaking and toe in, not out.

make a simple toe gauge, i just use what is most easily described as a giant g clamp made from bits and bobs of steel, that can reach right round the front wheels, with m6 screws to adjust till it touches the wheel rims. Do it at the front, than at the back, of the front wheel rims, campare the turns of adjustment on the screws (1 turn = 1mm ) and use a bit of simple trigonometry to get the degrees of toe in, or just set it to about 3mm smaller at the front of the rim compared to the back this will be about right.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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David Jenkins

posted on 16/3/09 at 01:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Nitram - not exactly a helpful response there. We all know there are sections of the SVA test that we have to adhere to, that have no long term relavance to our cars (or are you going to keep all of your additional silencers, cats, emissions mapping, nut covers etc etc on your car?). I agree, a car that won't self centre would feel odd, but we don't need the amateur dramatics to prove the point. Just as you are doing, we all make modifications for the test, that get replaced/tweaked/fall off after the test. Maybe this is the scenario myke is in....? Just a thought....


I wouldn't say that self-centering is in the 'bits of stuff that comes off after SVA' category! Having driven cars with poor self-centering, my personal opinion it's fundamental to safe driving on the public roads.






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alistairolsen

posted on 16/3/09 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
when will people stop bodging their poo geometry and just remake the wishbones to make the car safer and nicer to drive?
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procomp

posted on 16/3/09 at 03:33 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

When will the KIT manufacturers actualy sort the problems out rather than leaving customers who have spent a large amount of money with them. With a car that will not legally pass the SVA / IVA test without being bodged.

It really is appalling.

Cheers Matt






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