Northy
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 posted on 5/3/04 at 09:26 PM |
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Setting up bias bar?
Hi folks,
I rang Luego today about setting my pedalbox up, but after playing about, I'm not sure.
Luego said to get more braking effort on a M/C, move the spherical bearing AWAY from it. This web site said the opposite:
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/tech1k.htm
Now I'm confused Does anyone out there know the truth?
Found this though on 'tinternet, which is interesting.
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing! 
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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Dave Ashurst
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| posted on 5/3/04 at 09:49 PM |
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TOWARDS it. Try it for yourself.
There must have been a misunderstanding.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/3/04 at 02:19 PM |
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Yes definitely towards, this particular bit of misinformation has been around for some time and seems to have originated from another Locost chassis
building company.
For the record the correct procedure to set the brake bais for road use is a road test it at a low speed on a good DRY surface set the bias so the
fronts are locking before the rear, then gradually adjust 1/4 at a time turn towards the rear until you find the point where the rears just start to
lock, then give it a turn and a half back towards the front and then road test a higher speeds gradually working up the range to ensure the front
always lock just before the rears -- this should give you a "safe" setting for SVA pass.. For a race car the difference between dry and
wet settings is usually no more than 1 turn turn towards the rear (in wet weather the fronts tend to lock prematurely).
[Edited on 6/3/04 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 6/3/04 by britishtrident]
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Northy
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| posted on 6/3/04 at 02:33 PM |
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Cheers guys, thats what I thought from playing about with it last night 
I was told to set it up by getting the car up on axel stands, and get someone to press the brake pedal untill the front wheels lock. At this point the
rears shouls just be starting to bind.
Sounds reasonable, I think
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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Dave Ashurst
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| posted on 6/3/04 at 03:28 PM |
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Northy
Maybe, but I don't feel that static bias setting "by hand" is necessarily reasonable.
If you can, you should definitely do a dynamic test like britishtrident suggests. The preferable method I understand is to drive in a wide curve and
brake hard. Adjust the bias just so that you don't lose the tail, but slide straight forward instead.
Of course you'll need a wide open area for that.
The problem is, adequate front brake bias in light braking might still result in the rears locking first under hard braking.
Deceleration transfers load from the rear wheels to the front. i.e. improves road grip at the front tyres and lightens the grip at the rear. You
have to account for that.
In any case the definitive test will be at the SRA rollers.
Do your best and err on the safe side but I'd expect to fail first time and accept you'll have to adjust it ...unless anyone has a better
solution. You'll need to deal with the dilemma of having to lock the bias adjustment before SVA.
regards
Dave
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