j30fos
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 11:30 AM |
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Rear brakes sticking on
Can the rear xr4x4 brakes on my Indy get adjusted as they seem to have stuck on slightly, I can still push/pull the car. I've loosened the
handbrake right off so its not that.
any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
John
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Julian B
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 12:31 PM |
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Is that a disk setup? and did you strip and refurb the brakes?
I have just refurbed a set of rear disks and the shaft that attaches to the handbrake cable, when removed from the caliper was full of crud and crap.
Before i cleaned it out and replaced the seals it was all very tight.
I dont know if thats of any help?
Cheers
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j30fos
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 01:05 PM |
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Nah I just put the calipers on as money was tight but it looks like I might have to invest some more money in the Indy
oh yes they are disks all round
[Edited on 17/3/04 by j30fos]
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Julian B
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 01:50 PM |
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You can get a calliper service kit from Brakes International. If you haven’t used them before
you will need to go through the log in process, but its well worthwhile. It shouldn’t cost much more than £10 for a couple of service kits containing
all the rubber seals etc
Its well worth completely dismantling them, as the amount of crud that builds is surprising. Getting the callipers back together can be a bit fiddly
but I think I had both callipers done in a couple of hours. The Haynes manual says you need a special Ford tool but a bit of Kit builder
resourcefulness will see you through
Good Luckk
Julian Brewer
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 04:37 PM |
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They do tend to bind just a tad more than front calipers -- but it could be you need to fit the return springs from a Granada ----
For the self adjuster to work properly the lever on the caliper MUST go almost fully back almost hard against the stop., if the cables are too tight
it simply won't adjust. A common work around on the Sierra caliper is to fit the return spring from a Grandad Scorpio which is strong enough to
keep the adjuster working.
A word of warning to anyone working on this style of rear caliper for the first time When fitting new pads the handbrake cable must be fully off (best
to give it an extra bit of slack) and the caliper levers fully home before trying wind the pistons back -- trying to force the pistons back using
the Sykes-Pickavant screw press-windback tool will knacker the self-adjuster. Light pressure while turning the piston is OK but using brute force
isn't.
[Edited on 17/3/04 by britishtrident]
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Hellfire
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 09:51 PM |
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Crikey - glad I read this one, seems like we have a little more work to do 
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scotlad
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| posted on 17/3/04 at 10:13 PM |
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check the calliper sliders are free- one of mine was stuck with grit, causing the caliper to sit squinty and the inner edge of the pad to bind on.took
me ages to suss that was the prob!
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j30fos
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| posted on 18/3/04 at 08:12 AM |
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LAst night I went out to the car and all seemed ok, drove it for say 30-40 miles still ok, the only thing I did was cut the tie wraps that were on the
Flexi hoses, this may have restrictid flow. The rear calipers are off a 2.0 litre granada as they are the same as the XR4x4. Will have to see how it
goes, but thinking about it, both calipers on at the same time I think rules out caliper problems, normally they would go on one side first.
I still cannot believe how fast this car is
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/3/04 at 01:14 PM |
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Is your master cylinder returning fully ?
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pinyachta
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| posted on 21/3/04 at 04:02 PM |
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Ford calipers
quote:
Originally posted by scotlad
check the calliper sliders are free- one of mine was stuck with grit, causing the caliper to sit squinty and the inner edge of the pad to bind on.took
me ages to suss that was the prob!
==>This is the first thing I'd check. It takes very little dirt or rust to freeze up the locating pins. In extreme situations the drag on the
caliper will cause overheating which will trash the caliper and disk. Often called a frozen caliper, it's not the pistons that are frozen
it's one of the locating pins. It's a good idea to pull the caliper of and clean and grease the pins every 25K or at least at pad changes.
I revove them from the caliper and attack them with a wire wheel on the grinder.
Failing this, I'd run the piston back and see if the adjuster is working. Use your angle grinder wrench with the two pins on it to wind the
piston back. Mind those hairpin adjuster springs. They'll take an eye if they can!
Geo. Cushing, Delanson, NY
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