F1 Mini
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 07:57 AM |
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Thread tube for Rose joints ?
Does anyone know where I can buy these so I can make up my own Rose Jointed top A arms ?
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 08:15 AM |
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As I have not got to building my wishbones yet I am sure I will be shot down, but can't you just tap out the correct size tube (after selecting
a tube bore from Zeus tables?).
Gareth
P.S. I will reply to your email tonight. I was having a little discusion last night about my program so I had my head in extreme debugging mode.
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MikeR
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 09:03 AM |
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look up my thread on rose joints, NS Dev suggested a place i got my joints and the bits your talking about. I was impressed with them.
(which basically means i can't remember the name of the company and can't be arsed going to the garage to find out - if you have no luck,
send me a private message to remind me and i'll look for you)
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Peteff
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 09:51 AM |
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A friend of mine made me some M12 from round stock drilled and tapped on his lathe for my trailing arms. He did me some for the M18 balljoints as
well. Tube didn't seem to be in the right internal diameter for threading according to him or it wouldn't leave enough wall for his
liking.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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nige
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 10:57 AM |
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why not just weld nuts in the end of the tube
when you start this journey
you think it will be done in " no " time but then " no " turns into a " bloody " long time
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 12:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
A friend of mine made me some M12 from round stock drilled and tapped on his lathe for my trailing arms. He did me some for the M18 balljoints as
well. Tube didn't seem to be in the right internal diameter for threading according to him or it wouldn't leave enough wall for his
liking.
Surely you can get tube with a whole variety of wall thickness, pick one to suit, maybe some drilling for exact tapping hole size, but that has to
easier than making it up from solid?
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andkilde
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 01:30 PM |
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Sourcing short lengths of tubing in very specific ID's can be a chore. Most steel merchants carry tube in 10 or 20 foot lengths only, not a
problem when buying for a whole chassis, but...
The folks who sell the rod ends usually carry preformed weld-in inserts or as rashandnige suggested nuts can be welded in.
If you can chase down a friendly machinist, custom made bits cut from solid can be very reasonable compared with chasing down special bits of tube.
Try calling around to instructors at local technical schools or posting a want ad here on the site.
Cheers, Ted
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mangogroove
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 02:17 PM |
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The other way is to find some steam tube. That gets tapped out to do what you want. Weld it into the ends.
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Digger Barnes
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 02:33 PM |
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If you need some offcuts of tube in specific sizes for this job U2U me with the thread size required and I will see if we have something to suit on
the shelf in the workshop (we are an oil refinery and have all sorts of sizes and schedules of pipe on the shelf).
If you require loads then try a supplier, but if you need a foot or two then I may be able to help
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Peteff
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 04:42 PM |
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nuts can be welded in
The nuts I have need to be ground down to fit in the tube and are only about 15mm thick and have a bright coating on them . The mild steel inserts he
made me knock tightly into the tube and are 35mm long so are much better suited.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 05:02 PM |
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Hi F1 mini!
If you need some help I can produce these inserts for you no problem (have lathe etc, also M18 fine tap for the Transit balljoints)
As Mike R said further up, Trackstore (www.trackstore.co.uk) are great and supply all this stuff, as well as top quality rod ends at very good prices
(not to be confused with the cheap and nasty ones, they only do chrome moly but at prices no much higher than the cheapo ones!!)
I am near Hinckley in Leicestershire, let me know if you need anything making and are not too far away or are ok to pay postage!!
PS I also just used CFS tube with a suitable bore to tap straight out on my grasser (see photos)
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F1 Mini
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 07:48 PM |
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Thanks alot lads, I will see what trackstore
have in stock. Thanks for the offers of help, I may take you up on them Yet.
PS NS Dev
I'm Near Coventry so not far from away, how's your build ? or have you finished you car ?
[Edited on 5/5/04 by F1 Mini]
[Edited on 5/5/04 by F1 Mini]
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Dale
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| posted on 5/5/04 at 08:44 PM |
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for my trailing arms I welded nuts on the end and ground one half the nut edges off and slid another tube overtop as a sleeve and welded it at both
ends leaving just enough of the nut hex to get a wrench on. Pretty sure I could hang the car up by these with no issues.
Dale
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/5/04 at 10:14 PM |
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F1 mini, you are not too far away then, I am in Barwell, near Hinckley, to be more precise!
I have not finished my locost, I am waiting for the chassis from ST at the moment. I have finished a number of other cars though, most recent was a
complete restoration of a very rare Opel Manta (also into these!) and my most recent scratch build was my grasstrack racing car (some pics in my photo
archive). I have also built (restored + engine transplant+ suspension changes) two other Opel Mantas (less involved though) and built a Rear Wheel
Drive Peugeot 205 (Vauxhall 2.0 16v XE + type 9 'box + Capri axle, not unlike a heavy locost really!) for rallying. I also was involved in
building a mid-engined vauxhall Nova that featured in CCC magazine a few years back and that my mate rallied for a few years.
Let me know if you need any help with anything.
Cheers
Nat.
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