stevegough
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posted on 18/4/11 at 08:35 PM |
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Tracking
Well, after a couple of months on the road, finally got round to setting the tracking up a bit better - had it set about 3 / 5 degrees toe in and knew
it wasn't quite right - reset it yesterday to about 1 / 2 degrees and the difference is astounding. Before, it was a bit difficult to steer
perfectly straight, and now you can take both hands off the wheel and its nice and steady.
However, I'm not too happy with the amount of thread left inside the TREs - about 8 full turns - is there some way to get a bit more length (as
the actress said to the bishop!) either on the rack or on the TREs themselves?
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 18/4/11 at 08:51 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevegough
Well, after a couple of months on the road, finally got round to setting the tracking up a bit better - had it set about 3 / 5 degrees toe in and knew
it wasn't quite right - reset it yesterday to about 1 / 2 degrees and the difference is astounding. Before, it was a bit difficult to steer
perfectly straight, and now you can take both hands off the wheel and its nice and steady.
However, I'm not too happy with the amount of thread left inside the TREs - about 8 full turns - is there some way to get a bit more length (as
the actress said to the bishop!) either on the rack or on the TREs themselves?
1-2 degrees seems like alot
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/4/11 at 08:54 PM |
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8 threads should be OK, though less than I'd expect. You want 1 1/2 times the diameter of length as a general rule. Which is more than the
number of threads in a nut and you don't panic about them stripping threads much.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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stevegough
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| posted on 18/4/11 at 09:07 PM |
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Ok, cheers, what about using a pair of these? rack exts
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Chippy
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| posted on 18/4/11 at 10:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevegough
Ok, cheers, what about using a pair of these? rack exts
Don't think they would be of any use, as they are to extend the escort rack to Sierra dimensions, and as you already have thread in the TRE
there wouldn't be room. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 05:31 AM |
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8 turns will be fine.
0.5 degree is perhaps still too much toe-in.
If you are using a Trakrite to measure toe then you can adjust with a fair degree of accuracy, the key is getting the toe setting just on the
toe-in side of zero aim for as close as possible to 0.125 degrees. 0.25 toe-in is Ok but don't let it toe-out.
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 07:03 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by britishtrident
8 turns will be fine.
0.5 degree is perhaps still too much toe-in.
If you are using a Trakrite to measure toe then you can adjust with a fair degree of accuracy, the key is getting the toe setting just on the
toe-in side of zero aim for as close as possible to 0.125 degrees. 0.25 toe-in is Ok but don't let it toe-out.
Thats what I was thinking 6-10' per wheel (0.1°ish) Toe In is closer to the mark, 1° is extreme even for race cars.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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stevegough
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 08:32 AM |
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Thanks for all your replies up to now, guys.....
So, the initial setting of 3 to 5 degrees was pretty way off, then? Just to clarify, I have set it now at 1 to 2 degrees, not half a degree. I
have no gauging equipment, so all these angles are pretty approximate - as for setting it to fractions of an angle like 0.125 or even 0.25 degrees, I
haven't a hope without professional measuring equipment.
Thanks for your reply regarding the extensions, Chippy. I have just read an article in Adam Wilkins' 'Track Days 2010' which shows
a very similar problem to mine - they fitted these TRE extensions by cutting the outer end of the TRE off, and then a small amount of the track rod,
too.
The main worry I have is, when I unscrewed the fitting on the RHS of the car, after about 2 to 3 turns the TRE starts to kink out of alignment with
the rod - I think there may be a bit of a slight taper in the thread in the TRE? May be the answer is to simply get some longer TREs with the same
threads?
What I don't want is for the two bits to come adrift at speed - its got me a bit worried.  
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 09:27 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevegough
Thanks for all your replies up to now, guys.....
So, the initial setting of 3 to 5 degrees was pretty way off, then? Just to clarify, I have set it now at 1 to 2 degrees, not half a degree. I
have no gauging equipment, so all these angles are pretty approximate - as for setting it to fractions of an angle like 0.125 or even 0.25 degrees, I
haven't a hope without professional measuring equipment.
I wouldn't call 2 reels of cotton, 2 steel pole/broom handles, 4 cable ties and a ruler professional equipment.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 10:37 AM |
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Buy a Gunson Trakrite costs about £50 get the money back in tyre wear
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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bartonp
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 10:43 AM |
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http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=153195
Get a std laser pointer & make up a bit of wood to hold it parallel to & just away from the wheel face.
Park close to garage wall, perpendicular to wall.
Centralise the steering wheel.
Using laser on both front wheels, measure distance between spots on wall = X2
Back car away from wall approx. a couple of meters = Y.
Measure distance between spots again = X1
Your single wheel toe-in is tan-1((X1-X2)/2Y)).
Cost? £4.99 laser pointer & some 'O' level trig.
Oh- and a garage wall!
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Doctor Derek Doctors
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 11:59 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by bartonp
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=153195
Get a std laser pointer & make up a bit of wood to hold it parallel to & just away from the wheel face.
Park close to garage wall, perpendicular to wall.
Centralise the steering wheel.
Using laser on both front wheels, measure distance between spots on wall = X2
Back car away from wall approx. a couple of meters = Y.
Measure distance between spots again = X1
Your single wheel toe-in is tan-1((X1-X2)/2Y)).
Cost? £4.99 laser pointer & some 'O' level trig.
Oh- and a garage wall!
Or string it properly..... for £0, with no maths and without the error of trying to park parralell(sic) to a wall.
It really is so simple, especially on a '7'
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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onenastyviper
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| posted on 19/4/11 at 01:05 PM |
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Is it worth checking when the car is fully laden to see if you have any strange toe-in/out tendancies?
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