Autosri
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 02:27 PM |
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Sierra brake calipers bleed nipples and pipe threads
Anyone know what thread the bleed nipples would be on an 1988 seirra for the front calipers and rear drums also what would the pipe fittings be
feeding the calipers and drums
I have a fault on the brakes there is a big dead area at the start of the pedal so wanted to disconnect all the calipers and drums and cap off the
ends to see if the pedle feel improves so I can find the fault but there is no way in he'll the bleed nipples would move To rebleed
Thanks
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jossey
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 02:41 PM |
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I used a UNF pipe end for 3/16 pipe
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 03:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Autosri
Anyone know what thread the bleed nipples would be on an 1988 seirra for the front calipers and rear drums also what would the pipe fittings be
feeding the calipers and drums
Standard Euro thread - M10 x 1, for the caliper and rear drum inlet connections. Bleed nipple should be the same on Girling/Lucas calipers. Could be
smaller size bleed screw on e.g. Teves (Ate) calipers.
Work-in-Progress: Changed to Zetec + T9. Still trying!!
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adithorp
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 03:39 PM |
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All the Sierra brake pipes and fittings are M10x1 on all years as far as I know.
I can't see how you intend to bleed the system unless you can undo the bleed nipples sooner or later though. It can be achieved, but it
isn't easy.
Jossey, if you used UNF pipe nuts? Are you sure they were right? UNF male can be put into an M10x1 female but they're a poor/sloppy fit. M10
male into UNF female takes brute force.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Autosri
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 05:42 PM |
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Thanks guys will get some bits ordered then
I will be able to force the bleed nipples out with some mole grips but they won't be any good after so wanted new ones to replace
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 06:04 PM |
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Trade secret to get 99.9% of trapped air out of front calipers with seized bleed nipples,remove the top of the fluid resevoir on one caliper
remove both of the pads and insert a tyre lever between piston and disc Then get an assistant to very gently pump the pedal a little to force the
piston out to about 75% of its maximum travel then use the tyre lever to push the piston back, repeat and then replace the pads and pump to bring
the padspedal into full contact with the disc. Repeat for the other side.
[Edited on 18/10/11 by britishtrident]
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Autosri
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 06:25 PM |
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That's quite a good idea lol still think il get some new bleed screws as odds are il be doing the job on my own
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 06:48 PM |
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To do it on your own use a Gunson EezziBleed also if yo have conventional tintop style hoses use a hose nip to control fluid flow .
If undoing brake pipes to reduce fluid loss and bleeding top the reservoir up to the very brim. Then stretch some cling film over the open top
excluding any air and secure with a couple of elastic bands to make an air tight. It is amazing how effective this at retaining fluid and
preventing air entering the system,
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 06:50 PM |
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Also get a proper 11mm brake pipe spanner.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Autosri
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| posted on 18/10/11 at 10:55 PM |
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yeah got a couple of them got a 10-11 and 13-14 had to buy them when i did my brake pipes on my bmw
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