Gav
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| posted on 1/2/06 at 11:52 PM |
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Balance bar and remote adjuster?
Ive been fixing together my pedal set and pondering over the balance bar with a remote adjuster such as
This
Im just wondering how this actually affects the position of the pushrods in the clevis pins, as this i understand is what effects the balance?
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jambojeef
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 12:01 AM |
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Hi Gav,
I understand it works cos when you turn the knob (insert gag here) you rotate the balance bar inside the collar and screw it through the clevis
pins.
This has the effect of moving the contact patch (i.e pivot point) of the stainless ball inside the collar slightly sideways thus altering the force
distribution between master cylinders.
I will probably run this set-up eventually but watch out for SVA - if the adjystment knob is within reach of the driver it will be tested in both
extremes of travel when they test the brakes IIRC.!
Geoff
[Edited on 2/2/06 by jambojeef]
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Gav
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 12:11 AM |
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OK i gotcha,
So presumably the bearing inside the collar must be able to move sideways reasonably freely in the collar? as the one i have which i got from GTS
which also looks like the cheaper non-willwood one on the rally design site, is very tight.
I assume i would have to ream this out slightly after i weld the collar into the pedal itself to ensure their is no distortion due to the welding.
Or have i got that wrong?
[Edited on 2/2/06 by Gav]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 12:18 AM |
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No, you're exactly right. I usually use a flap sanding wheel in the drill and run this through it for a bit after welding, usually sorts it
without the hassle of finding a reamer from work! Don't forget to grease the inside of the tube!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 07:40 AM |
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Why do you imagine you need one ? for road use you will only ever adjust the brake balance once.
For track use you only ever need two settings -- wet or dry -- usually either just one full turn or 1/2 turn apart.
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Gav
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 09:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Why do you imagine you need one ?
I just happened to be browsing the rally design site and spoted the adjuster and wondered how it would work.
Also the plan is eventually to do track days and maybe some sprints/hill climbs so i figured why not have a balance bar.
[Edited on 2/2/06 by Gav]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 09:41 AM |
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The various vehicles that I have built have always hed a balance bar. As BrtitishTrident says, you may not need to adjust often, but the possibility
to do so is very welcome!!! Certainly have always moved them every few events for one reason or another.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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JB
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 05:43 PM |
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Balance br Adjustment
In reality we use the balance bar to fine tune the balance and leave it there.
However you require a different front rear balance for surfaces with different grips. For example on grippy tarmac where you can really brake hard
which gives lots of weight transfer you require very little rear braking. However on ice you can run close to 50:50 balance.
Therefore if you really want to optimise your brakes you need to adjust the balance for each type of road surface you drive on.
John
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nitram38
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 07:55 PM |
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According to the SVA the adjuster must be locked off so that it cannot be adjusted beyond the worst case senario. That means that it can still be
adjusted up to these limits and the sva will test to both extremes if adjustment is possible.That is that the Front brakes lock before the rears. It
should be locked in a way that further adjustment is not possible, so the locking nut must be roll pinned. Also an adjusting device must not be
accessible by the driver whilst driving, so the cable adjuster should be moved/removed before the test.
People often say, what is the point? well it makes sense to have the car set to the optimum instead of using a limiting device. I feel comforted that
the 'dual' circuits are not connected in anyway and that the dual setup allows for any design differences from that of the donor.
[Edited on 2/2/06 by nitram38]
[Edited on 2/2/06 by nitram38]
[Edited on 2/2/06 by nitram38]
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