bigandy
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 12:19 PM |
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New braking system filling.
Morning folks.
I'm justposting for a bit of advice regarding the filling of the Braking system on my car with hydraulic fluid.
I have a completely new system, including all new pipes, unions, master cylinders, and new calipers too. I have fitted the calipers with pads, and
everything is bolted down, ready to be filled.
The system is a dual circuit (split front/rear) with a bias bar, and the calipers are Sierra front and rears, the master cylinders being Wilwood
remote reservoir ones.
Has anyone got any tips, or any sources of information about filling the system for the first time? I'm probably going to be doing it on my
own, unless I can persuade SWMBO to give me a hand. Are there any essential tools needed? Any idea of how much brake fluid I am likely to need?
I was hoping to be able to fill the front circuit first, and get that sorted, before moving on to the rear circuit.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Andy
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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RazMan
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 12:28 PM |
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With a dual system like yours you can do as you say, getting front & rear circuits sorted separately. The bias bar can change the feel of the
pedal but shouldn't give you any problems - just bleed as normal.
Allow a full litre of 5.1 fluid (possibly more if you have problems) and the job is much much easier with the help of SWMBO's foot 
Regarding method, the simplest is the best way - clear tube on nipple to a jar with a little fluid in the bottom. Get SWMBO to pump the pedal firmly
until no more bubbles come through and tighten
the nipple on the downward stroke of the pedal.
[Edited on 14-11-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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mike smith1
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 12:50 PM |
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always start at the furthest point from the master cylinder (n/s rear). would definatly get some help, I borrowed a power bleeder which made it alot
easier, but would always recommend the traditional method to ensure you have a good pedal at the end!
Have Fun
Mike
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bigandy
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 01:17 PM |
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I've just been reading about, and apparently the sierra rear calipers (ones with handbrake mechanism built in) need to be bled properly before
connecting the handbrake up.
Can anyone explain why this might be?
I'm going to have a look at some of the easy bleed things this afternoon 
Cheers
Andy
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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02GF74
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 01:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mike smith1
always start at the furthest point from the master cylinder (n/s rear).
hmmm, not sure about this. I fitted new sierra master and the haynes say to bleed the front first - something to do with the valving so if the front
part of the piston is not seeing resistance the rear part doesn't work.
(I'll need to look up the haynes to see if my memroy is right).
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mike smith1
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 03:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
hmmm, not sure about this. I fitted new sierra master and the haynes say to bleed the front first - something to do with the valving so if the front
part of the piston is not seeing resistance the rear part doesn't work.
(I'll need to look up the haynes to see if my memroy is right).
Thats the way i bled ours and that came from a friend who is a Ford Mechanic however, that doesn't mean he is right!! 
Would also recommend not fastening the calipers up as the bleed nipples will be facing the floor, i hear people invert the calipers to allow the bleed
nipples to be at the top, which ensures that all the air is removed from the system.
Mike
[Edited on 14/11/06 by mike smith1]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 06:27 PM |
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Nothing to do with bleeding, all to do with cable tension adjustment and the self-adjusting mechanism. The cable needs to leave enough for the
self-adjuster in the caliper to work.
Leave the cable a bit slack until you bleed the system and get a solid pedal that will work the self adjuster in the caliper, only then tension the
cable but not to tight as the self-adjuster mech needs clearance to work.
90% of problems with handbrakes on this type of caliper are caused by the cable being too tight.
quote:
Originally posted by bigandy
I've just been reading about, and apparently the sierra rear calipers (ones with handbrake mechanism built in) need to be bled properly before
connecting the handbrake up.
Can anyone explain why this might be?
I'm going to have a look at some of the easy bleed things this afternoon
Cheers
Andy
[Edited on 14/11/06 by britishtrident]
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zetec7
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| posted on 14/11/06 at 08:13 PM |
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By the way, I've been told by every brake system mechanic I've ever spoken to that you should bench-bleed the master cylinder BEFORE
proceeding to the rest of the system. For one thing, it's (usually) the highest point in the system, and air gets trapped there. It also
speeds up the process, and makes sure the inside seals of the M/C are well lubricated with brake fluid before you really start pumping away at it...
http://www.freewebs.com/zetec7/
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britishtrident
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 11:27 AM |
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Yup prefilling and bleeding them/cylinder is good advice -- just stick bleed nipples i the ports until you connect it up.
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bigandy
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| posted on 15/11/06 at 11:46 AM |
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Cheers for all the tips folks, it is much appreciated!
I didn't know about filling/bleeding the master cylinders before the rest of the system.
Thanks for the tips ont eh cable handbrake too. I'm going to leave it completely disconnected until I have the rear brakes all bled and working
nicely, as you suggest. At least then I should be able to identify problems slightly easier!
My plan is to fill the system today, and make an attempt to get fluid round the complete system, then leave it for a few hours to allow everything to
settle, and for any minor leaks to show up. I'll then start the bleeding process, so expect some more "help!" type posts later
today
Cheers
Andy
PS.
Dammit! Too many decisions....
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