Mark Allanson
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posted on 3/8/03 at 09:29 PM |
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Upper balljoints too short?
When I tightened down my upper balljoints, the exposed thread is not long enough to protude into the nylon bit of the nylock nuts. I am hoping this is
due to having patern non original balljoints.
I will need much more length as the cycle brackets also need to be accomodated in the threaded length.
Anyone else had this problem, or got any suggestions?
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JoelP
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posted on 3/8/03 at 09:48 PM |
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you not using transit rod ends?
i guess you either need a longer thread or a shorter hole!
sorry i know thats both obvious and useless!
what hubs and bj you using?
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Rorty
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posted on 4/8/03 at 01:01 AM |
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Mark, ask your fastener supplier for some "thin" or "half height" Nylocs.
You still may not be able to capture the cycle guard stays though. Can you machine down the under side of the tapered hole?
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Viper
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posted on 4/8/03 at 07:05 AM |
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As Rorty says a nyloc half nut is what you need or failing that you could drill and split pin..i would rather find a half nut though..
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Ian Pearson
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posted on 4/8/03 at 07:55 AM |
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Mark,
I have exactly the same problem. I've asked several suppliers about half height nylocs, and been qouted silly prices and a min order of 50, so I
shall probably have to drill and lockwire them. If you are able to get hold of any longer threads, let me know!!
My cycle guards bolt to the upright via the brake dust cover mounting holes. There is an article in the Help Section on the
The Locost Car Club website.
I bought my stays from Lolocost. They were a little agricultural, but after a bit of attention now look quite decent.
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Peteff
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posted on 4/8/03 at 10:17 AM |
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Can't you cut a nyloc down and file it flat?.
It wouldn't take too much out of it as long as you don't use any high speed cutting tools and heat it up too much or melt the nyloc.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 4/8/03 at 10:38 AM |
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why does it need to be a nyloc?
I 'think' lolo sold plain locking nuts - but its so long I bought mine i cant remember quite where I put em!.
The lolo joints had about 70mm protruding. I always thought you put a nut at the wheel side of the threaded tube...
even if the nut loosened, there is no way the joint can unscrew cos its connected to the hub and can only rotate a few degrees anyway.
Surely drilling and pinning will affect future adjustment?
Im planning on using 'half nuts' - think mine are full - will get em machined down or cut in half if I cant get anything else to fit.
atb
steve
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David Jenkins
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posted on 4/8/03 at 10:41 AM |
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Steve,
I think you're at cross-purposes here!
I believe Mark is talking about the thread at the end of the taper, which pulls into the upright top hole. There isn't a lot of spare thread on
mine either.
DJ
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Viper
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posted on 4/8/03 at 10:45 AM |
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TuT c'mon Steve i know its monday morning ..but...
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 4/8/03 at 10:59 AM |
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Good replies,
I am using tranny balljoints and tina uprights, I was hoping that spurious balljoints were a little shorter than genuine ones, I know I can shorten
the nylocks, but I was hoping to cure the problem, not hide the symptom.
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 4/8/03 at 03:01 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Viper
TuT c'mon Steve i know its monday morning ..but...
Have only been back from Hols a few days - getting into the swing of things! Think lolo supplied my nyloc nuts with the joints......
atb
steve
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splitrivet
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posted on 4/8/03 at 03:49 PM |
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Same here although I could just about get a nyloc on.But it seemed that there wasnt enough shaft in the taper I just put it down to the balljoints
manufacturer or that I'd been Ron Championed yet again I was going to get the taper remachined in the stub axle.
Cheers,
Bob
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