Hugh Jarce
|
| posted on 28/10/04 at 09:27 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Anyone know if the discs have to be iron? i dont mean carbon, just something a bit lighter.
I've had some success with aluminium discs. Plain aluminium (I forget the grade now...may have been 5083) worked OK, but had to be replaced
every few race days. I experimented with plated aluminium, but early attempts suffered from delamination and surface crazing.
I later found success with a ductile electroless nickel/ceramic coating, so there were no problems with delamination or galling . The discs were
simply water cut and bead blasted prior to being plated by a local firm.
The bead blasting was not to enhance the adhesion of the plating (it will stick permanently to highly polished aluminium), but rather to impart a
better surface texture for braking effects. The plating is bullet proof (50-70 Rockwell C with ring shear bond strength of 15,000-35,000 psi) and will
tolerate anything that you can throw at it.
Not too expensive either.
The pay isn't very good , but the work's hard.
|
|
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 28/10/04 at 09:52 PM |
|
|
good suggestion mate. what hubs/calipers etc did you use these with, or did you make them go with whatever was needed?
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
|
|
|
Hugh Jarce
|
| posted on 28/10/04 at 10:07 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
good suggestion mate. what hubs/calipers etc did you use these with, or did you make them go with whatever was needed?
Yup, custom hubs and modified bike callipers.
The pay isn't very good , but the work's hard.
|
|
|
