craig1410
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| posted on 19/10/03 at 08:15 PM |
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Hi,
Glad I could help 
Check out their website for more details ( http://www.ebcbrakesuk.com/automotiveinfo.html)
Here is a quote regarding the greenstuff pads:
"Triple Max Power Award winning Greenstuff are the ultimate performance/fast street brake pads you can get for your hot hatch or sport compact.
These pads have a high friction coefficient, great initial bite from cold, right up to a blistering 650 degrees centigrade. Another major benefit of
the Greenstuff compound is its award winning feature of being LOW DUST. Being awarded the UK magazines Autotrade Innovation Award for its low dust
features, Greenstuff pads cut down between 60-90% of the dust common with most competitive types of semi-metallic pad on your alloys keeping wheels
cleaner and delivering performance at the same time. Greenstuff pads are available for a huge range of cars, SUV’s, light trucks and mini
vans."
Cheers,
Craig.
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ned
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 10:41 AM |
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As I've said before, I'm using corinta uprights and calipers, with the spacer kit for capri vented discs.
I've just updated my website with pics from reassembling the brakes at the weekend.
Look at this web page for futher details and pics.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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locoboy
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 10:52 AM |
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Ned,
Did you get happy with the grinder on the new spacer kit to make it flush with the calipers?
What is the "tool"
Just bought a rolling chassis and cbr1000 engine at the weekend - dont know what came over me. Dragged it back 330 miles from Scotland too! - must be
mad!
ATB
Locoboy
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ned
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 11:06 AM |
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Col,
yes, used grinder on the spacer - read the webpage 
the tool is the wire brush twisted cup for the angle grinder.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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mackie
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 11:45 AM |
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Where does one purchase 'the tool' from?
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ned
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 12:00 PM |
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homebase sell them at about £15 each (ouch!) scats sell them nearer £10-12 but I got two from a stand at the donington show for £10 (they were doing
£7each or 2x for £10)
Or try a motor factors or good tools shop.
the "tool":
Ned.
REMEMBER TO WEAR GOGGLES AND PREF LONG SLEEVES, POSSIBLY GLOVES.
[Edited on 20/10/03 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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mackie
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 12:24 PM |
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Always do overalls, big gloves, mask, proper goggles and a welding hat 
I managed to kill my finger with a pair of pliers yesterday though (while trying to pull cortina brake pads out).
Did you buy the uprights already off? I'm having a real bugger of a time getting the split pins out. I'm thinking of murdering the nuts
and going for new 'tina lower balljoints, i like the idea of new ball joints and they aren't *that* pricey.
I think we're just sticking with normal disks but with good pads and braided hoses. Master cylinder on the 'tina looks well rusty and is
leaking at the vacuum servo end.. should just need new seals...
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ned
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 01:12 PM |
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Mackie,
My uprights came with the tack welded chassis i bought as an abandoned project.
If you mean the split pin that holds the pads in, i used a small screwdriver until it 'pinged' off across the garage. the split pin by the
hub nut required some persuasion with a hammer, pliers and some wd40...
they looked like this.
Ned.
[Edited on 20/10/03 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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locoboy
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 01:22 PM |
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Was that last statement a leading one?
Go on then.................... i know you are dying to show us what the look like now.
Post us a piccy , to give me inspiration to het handy with the wire brush!
ATB
Locoboy
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mackie
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 01:33 PM |
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No, I had no bother getting the pads out (well apart from a bit of lump hammer and drift for the pins and causing 2 nice big blood blisters when i
caught my finger in the pliers ). I'm talking about the split pins holding the castle nuts on the ball joint studs/bolts. The loop is totally
within the "turret" so i can't get anything in there to hammer them out and pushing with pliers does nowt. It's a real pain,
hence why I was thinking of just grinding them off and getting new lower ball joints.
What do you think?
BTW, the before and after pictures are amazing, definately getting one of those "the tools". Did you get your caliper seal kit from gts
tuning? Will have to investigate caliper paint too.
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ned
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 02:05 PM |
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castle nut slit pin was a case of hammer, appropriate size screwdriver and pliers. carefull and painstaking, so as not to bend or brake the pin, but
to bloody well get it out!
here's a couple of pics:
more details at:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/users/ned/build/donorparts/index.htm
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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locoboy
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 02:23 PM |
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Ned,
Bit late as you have made a good job of cleaning/painting the uprights but it may have been worth radiusing the edge of the casting with the hole to
take the ball joint as i know a couple of people who failed SVA for it.
Just a thought.
ATB
Locoboy
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Fast Westie
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 02:32 PM |
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Green Stuff
Yep, these work better than your standard pads, but do not stand up well to overheating (e.g. very hard braking on the track). I knocked out a set of
rear Red Stuff pads with one track day!
The rear brakes on most Sevens (Westfields and Caterhams for sure) do suffer from overheating under hard track use and benefit from ducting cooling
air on to them.
The other problem is the fact that the rear caliper piston is in full contact with the pad so there is a lot of heat soak from the paqd into the fluid
which can lead to a soft pedal after the car has cooled down. This can be cured by a few pumps on the pedal once moving.
The car in front is a Westfield
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philgregson
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 02:41 PM |
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Col,
I assume you mean the lugs where the top and bottom ball joints fit?
That had never ocured to me as a possible failure point - thanks for the info.
Mind you it is starting to get a bit silly isn't it? If I had got to the stage where the front upright of a car was about to hit me on the head
I would think that whether it was radiused or not would cause but an extremely minor variation in the quality of the experience!
Phil
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mackie
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 02:42 PM |
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I'm now inclinded to just cut them off and worry about it later tbph. It's not nice crouching in uncomfortable positions in icy wind and
trying to be careful. Bah. Tried drilling one out and broke a bit. Stupid. They should have just used nylocs dammit!
Actually i think the cortina had a new track rod end at one point because it had a nyloc on it and no hole for a split pin, the other side was a
normal castle nut but the split pin was easily removed with some long nose pliers.
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JoelP
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 05:31 PM |
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when i was getting my track rod end out of the hub, i just ignored the split pin and snapped it off as i undid the nut. The remains just became part
of the thread. was quite rusty though!
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mackie
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 09:27 PM |
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I contemplated just using brute force with a breaker bar.
Tried to get pistons out of calipers tonight, managed 1 on each. Does anyone know any magic tricks for getting the remaining one out?
Also the haynes manual says "thou shalt never split the caliper". Is there a risk of it never sealing again or is it just haynes not
wanting to get sued?
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UncleFista
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| posted on 20/10/03 at 10:35 PM |
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I've read that a blast with compressed air should just "pop" the pistons out but I've not had much luck that way. I just use a
G-clamp to push 'em in slightly (to free 'em off) then use 2 large flat bladed screwdrivers to lever them out, equal pressure on both
sides.
Don't split 'em 'cos you'll let the brake genie out ! 
The bolts that hold 'em together are "stretch" bolts (?) and need replacing with new when it comes to putting 'em back
together, I've not found any for sale, thats not to say they aren't out there...
HTH
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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DrEagle
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 posted on 20/10/03 at 10:42 PM |
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Ive got a set of Cortina Hubs with new bearings ready to fit in them in if anybody is interested. They are cleaned up, Zink primed and painted black
see http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/eaglekitcars/Cars/EagleSS/EagleSS_Images/EagleSS_Cars/Simons_Build/0503A.jpg
and
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/eaglekitcars/Cars/EagleSS/EagleSS_Images/EagleSS_Cars/Simons_Build/0503B.jpg
for photos.
They are without the ugly back plates, callipers and disks. Email me for more info.
Regards
Simon
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Smooth Torquer
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| posted on 1/11/03 at 01:59 PM |
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Paint
When painting your uprights do you need to use a heat proof paint or not?
Just a thought, as they might get hot as heat is conducted out of the disks?
Sam
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Peteff
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| posted on 1/11/03 at 07:10 PM |
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Ordinary enamel works o.k. on them, they don't get that hot in normal road use.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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blueshift
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| posted on 1/11/03 at 11:03 PM |
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I have since abused our cortina front uprights and ball joints until they came off. lump hammers and breaker bars rule.
as for the calipers.. how have any of you "reconditioned" your cortina calipers, if you can't split them? seems a bit hard to get a
wire wheel / Tool in the middle to clean them up nicely for painting..
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Dick Axtell
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| posted on 2/11/03 at 10:10 AM |
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Caliper Re-con
quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
as for the calipers.. how have any of you "reconditioned" your cortina calipers, if you can't split them?
Blueshift - When splitting calipers, critical points to bear in mind are:
(i) Where to obtain replacement bridge bolts? New items are essential, see other comments posted here,
(ii) Transfer port seal, also very rare and next to impossible to find.
No replacement parts? - No split da caliper!!
Good luck, nonetheless.
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blueshift
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| posted on 3/11/03 at 11:34 PM |
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yeah, I think we're not planning to split them (unless anyone can tell us where to get the replacement bits?)
I was after hints about cleaning and painting without splitting..
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James
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| posted on 5/11/03 at 10:41 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mackie
<snip>
I'm talking about the split pins holding the castle nuts on the ball joint studs/bolts. The loop is totally within the "turret" so i
can't get anything in there to hammer them out and pushing with pliers does nowt. It's a real pain, hence why I was thinking of just
grinding them off and getting new lower ball joints.
What do you think?
BTW, the before and after pictures are amazing, definately getting one of those "the tools". Did you get your caliper seal kit from gts
tuning? Will have to investigate caliper paint too.
A pair of Cortina balljoints from Lolocost is about 7 quid! IMHO I'd have thought you'd replace them as a matter of course!
Their transit drag-link and track rod BJ are about a fiver a pair too.
The lower ones comes with all the bolts you need but the top BJ will need an appropriate nut IIRC.
When it comes to 'The Tool' if you haven't got one already then make sure you buy the twisted (or knotted) type. Halfwits sell one
where the wires are just straight and they last about a quarter as long and a lot more splines break off.
As Ned says- make sure you wear goggles and thick gauntlets and (non-loose as they can catch) overalls. The wires are travelling at nearly 70kph!!!
They fire straight through your clothes when they break off and if you catch youself with it then I say from experience it's even better at
removing skin and flesh than it is rust!
James
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