Aaron
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 12:38 PM |
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Master Cylinder Advice!?!
Just wondering if anyone can recommend the best brake master cylinder for my car. It's just a basic 1300 X-flow powered beast and I don't
want servo assistance. Just a BASIC master cylinder. Part numbers and prices would also help. Cheers guys,
Aaron
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mackie
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 12:51 PM |
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I'm wondering about this too.
Is it possible to use one removed from it's servo unit? We have a tandem one from a MKV cortina 2.0 GL
There doesn't seem to be a way to fix the pushrod to the piston so I assume you need a guide for it.
It's rusty and leaky though so what MC is best and what cars are they in?
Mackie
(sorry to hijack)
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craig1410
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 01:32 PM |
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Hi,
I'm planning to use the Sierra tandem master cylinder after removing it from the servo. This has three outputs, one for each front wheel and one
for the back circuit which will need a T-piece to split it to both back wheels.
Tiger recommend this approach in their Tiger Avon book and they can supply a pushrod modified to work without the pushrod. They also give drawings of
this if you want to make your own or you could probably know something together (carefully!) yourself from the two bits of pushrod which are inside
the Sierra servo unit already.
You can also use the Sierra pedal box (see some recent posts on this by Mark Allanson). I haven't done this yet but am working on it soon so
I'll let you know how it goes. It doesn't look difficult and my biggest hassle will be the fact that the Sierra pedal box is for a cable
clutch and I need a hydrualic setup for my Rover V8 engine.
HTH,
Craig.
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Project7
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 01:42 PM |
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This might help, but be quick as theres not long left
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2
455530731&category=27377
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Simon
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 02:10 PM |
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Aaron,
Here's the text from a reply I posted in October 02
"If it's of any use, what I did (using the original Sierra m/cyl / servo) is as follows:
Removed m/cyl from servo and dismantled servo completely. There were two rods in unit, one from pedal into servo, one from servo to m/cyl.
With my pedal box and m/cyl in place (ensuring pedal in correct position for brake light switch), I took a piece of wire put it through hole in pedal,
and into m/cyl, and marked off the length. I then took the two original rods and cut, shortened and welded them to req'd length.
It seems to have worked and I have the correct ends going into correct parts.
Hope this helps"
Craig, having said all that, I'm now in the process of completely rehashing system, and pedal box - going to have reverse mount m/cyls as
I'm too short on space!
Will put pics of progress up as and when!
(this, to everyone else! may only happen if you use a V engine!!)
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 23/1/04 by Simon]
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Kitlooney1000
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 09:16 PM |
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mrk II cortina
thats what ive used on mie, no servo invovled
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dblissett
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 09:38 PM |
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sierra
please rember that if you use the sierra master cylinder you must use the sierra compensator thingie for the back brakes
it reduces the braking to the rear of the car
i cant remmber the name of it but its a cylinder about 100mm long and about 75mm diameter
the larger is stoping my poor brain working
cheers dave
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craig1410
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| posted on 23/1/04 at 10:12 PM |
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Dave,
I intend to use the compensator from a Fiat Uno as these are adjustable (with a little bit of modification). I think you will find that the Sierra
compensator has to be mounted at a particular angle and is thus a bit of a pain to fit.
Thanks for the warning though, it would certainly be interesting to see what happened if no compensator was used... 
Cheers,
Craig.
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Peteff
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| posted on 24/1/04 at 11:50 AM |
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I'm using Cortina front brakes and Capri rear without any rear compensator and they work fine. Passed the SVA and subsequent MOTs no problem.
The rear brake cylinders are the same part as Sierra,Cortina and Escort according to the brake catalogue in the spares shop. You could fit an
adjustable one if you want to tweak it but it's not needed. The Sierra one works on the angle of inclination so you will not get it to work on a
Locost unless you put really soft suspension on.
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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craig1410
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| posted on 24/1/04 at 12:05 PM |
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Peteff,
Yes I sometimes wish I was using drum brakes on the back too but in fact I have Sierra discs. These will almost certainly require a compensator to
avoid imbalance and by all accounts the Fiat Uno compensator is the way to go. I heard someone say that these are only £20 or so from a Fiat dealer
which seems remarkably cheap!
Cheers,
Craig.
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craig1410
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| posted on 24/1/04 at 12:07 PM |
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Simon,
quote:
Craig, having said all that, I'm now in the process of completely rehashing system, and pedal box - going to have reverse mount m/cyls as
I'm too short on space!
This surprises me, perhaps naively, as I seem to have plenty of space for the pedal box from the sierra. I've not fully fitted it yet mind so I
may yet find problems. Where exactly did you run into trouble with it?
Cheers,
Craig.
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Simon
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| posted on 26/1/04 at 12:05 AM |
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Craig,
I don't know if you've seen the "revised" exhuast pics (they're the ones starting "2003" or "2004" in the
photo archive) - have a look at the shape of the "down" pipes - nothing will go in there without boiling (yes - I intend to heat wrap it
all!).
If the m/cyl is to be mounted in usual place - ie forward and above pedal box, it would be v. close to my o/s rocker cover.
I've started making some not so subtle mods to the pedal box (more work to do), but have a look at this (and bear in mind I've chopped about
three inches from front of p/box which is where m/cyl should go (apologies for blurreness - was in a bit of a rush).
ATB
Simon
PS - if you want dimensions of mods let me know!
 
Rescued attachment 2004_0123Image0014.JPG
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craig1410
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| posted on 26/1/04 at 12:20 AM |
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Simon,
Yes I know what you mean about the rocker cover proximity as I have been working on the pedal box on my car tonight. My (provisional) solution is to
straighten the brake pedal and place it on the right hand side of the steering column with the clutch on the other side of the column. This still
gives just about enough space for the accelerator pedal and will probably give me enough space on the left hand side for a left foot rest beside the
clutch.
So far I've straightened the brake pedal (in both planes) and now need to do a bit of measuring to figure out where I want the pedals to go
exactly. I need to measure how high my balls are (of my feet I mean ) to get the right pedal height and then clamp it all in position to see if it
will do. No doubt I'll then come to the conclusion that it's all nutsack and do what you are doing...
Cheers,
Craig.
ps. What are doing about the clutch pedal? Are you just mounting a clevis pin onto the Sierra pedal after removing the yellow quadrant?
[Edited on 26/1/2004 by craig1410]
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Simon
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| posted on 26/1/04 at 12:52 AM |
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Craig,
We seem to have hijacked post - apologies Aaron - though I'm sure it's interesting reading for someone!
Anway - yup, will be welding a vertical piece of steel for clutch m/c mounting(brake m/c is at an angle - as it was when it left Daganham - just back
to front). Will also be adding more reinforcement and inner (towards t-tunnel) mountings. Pedal has had front removed - so has only three sides. This
will be corrected with the addition of a fourth, the the whole lot extended by about 1.5" on top (as per brake pedal). Drilled thru, ready for
clevis etc.
Will put up more pics later in the week - will be working M/T/W eves.
Got any snow yet Cold down here - must be at least 3 deg C - positively balmy in comparison I reckon
ATB
Simon
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craig1410
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| posted on 26/1/04 at 01:06 AM |
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Simon,
No snow yet but it is frosty.
Yes, please keep us informed of progress, I am keen to see how you get on. I'm just about to open another thread on exhaust sizing which may
interest you.
Cheers,
Craig.
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