mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 10:14 AM |
|
|
Brake Lines
I've noticed (2 and a bit years in and with an SVA application in!) that my brake lines aren't quite right at the front. I've got
GTS braided ones. One end has a bulkhead male fitting with a convex end and the other end has a standard threaded end with a concave end. Here's
the thing. Seems I had them in the wrong way, with the longer bulkhead fixing in the caliper but that's because it has a convex end and the
caliper a concave recess. If I now put them the right way I can properly secure the line to the bulkhead with a locknut but the fitting going into the
caliper will be concave? Can I just put a copper washer on and seal it on that and forget that I have a concave/concave fitting? If that all makes
sense
Been up all bloody night with this bothering me.
|
|
|
|
|
BillHoll
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 10:20 AM |
|
|
No do not use a washer! There is normally a short copper pipe fom the caliper itself to a bracket on the caliper and the flexi joins here. The
bracket usually is part of the tab washer that stop the caliper bolts from undoing.
|
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 10:23 AM |
|
|
What? Nah your wrong there. When I got the calipers they had stubs of rubber brake line hanging out which had been screwed straight in and cut rather
than unscrewed.
These are Sierra calipers by the way.
|
|
|
BillHoll
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 10:29 AM |
|
|
Sorry,
that is what is on my cortina calipers.
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 10:37 AM |
|
|
Sounds like you need new pipe to me, mate. Anything else could end up a bodge and I think it'll just be easier to just bite the bullet.
A ridged pipe from the caliper to a bracket won't do as the caliper slides.
Probably not what you wanted to hear.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 11:02 AM |
|
|
Here's a drawing. My expalnations no good.
 
As you can see I have a concave face meeting a concave recess at the caliper. The caliper surface does have a slight recess in that'd fit a
copper washer so the seal could be made there rather than the mating faces if I'm right?
The other thing is that on the solid brake line joint I'd have to flare the thing outwards like a flower in spring rather than crimping it
like a mushroom.
[Edited on 12/12/08 by mistergrumpy]
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 11:19 AM |
|
|
In all hydraulic systems the joint seal should always be formed by a softer deformable surface mating to a harder (ie machined steel or cast iron)
part.
This means
(1) If linking screwing a flex hose directly to a caliper or wheel cylinder the seal should be formed by a cooper (or "Dowty"
washer.
(2) Two brake lines should not be joined without using a special joining fitting ie It isn't safe simply to link two flaired pipe ends by
simply screwing a male fitting directly into a female fitting.
[Edited on 12/12/08 by britishtrident]
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 11:28 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by mistergrumpy
The other thing is that on the solid brake line joint I'd have to flare the thing outwards like a flower in spring rather than crimping it
like a mushroom.
[Edited on 12/12/08 by mistergrumpy]
That type of flare is a double flair ie convex-concave, It formed by doing a standard convex flair (OP1) followed by re-pressing with the a
concave tool (OP2).
Strictly speak this type of flair hasn't DIN standard but you will find them on many cars.
Strictly speaking SAE (Imperial & US) and DIN (Metric) flairs are a different shape and require different tools but in practice it dosen't
matter.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
Neville Jones
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 11:28 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by britishtrident(2) Two brake lines should not be joined without using a special joining fitting ie It isn't safe
simply to link two flaired pipe ends by simply screwing a male fitting directly into a female fitting.
Why? Ford seem to do it quite happily. One concave onto one convex. Sierras, Fiestas,
[Edited on 12/12/08 by Neville Jones]
|
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 12/12/08 at 11:33 AM |
|
|
Righto. We're on then, thanks fellas. Off to get a couple of copper washers. Bloody brake fluid everywhere, I hate the stuff.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 13/12/08 at 11:38 AM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by mistergrumpy
Righto. We're on then, thanks fellas. Off to get a couple of copper washers. Bloody brake fluid everywhere, I hate the stuff.
To stop fluid loss.
Polly bag trick -- undo the fluid resevoir cap then fill to the brim --- stretch a bit of clear polythene over the top and hold on with elastic
bands to form an air tight seal.
|
|
|
mistergrumpy
|
| posted on 13/12/08 at 12:49 PM |
|
|
Cheers. I'll do that. I can't stand the stuff ,it gets all over your hands and its always sodding freezing when I have to mess with it.
|
|
|
Bluemoon
|
| posted on 14/12/08 at 10:48 AM |
|
|
Hat to say it but a washer will not fix the problem, you still need a male and female part to mate together..
Dan
|
|
|
Vindi_andy
|
| posted on 15/12/08 at 10:45 AM |
|
|
Had the same problem. Strangely Ford fit concave fittings into the calipers which have a concave seat. I know this because I took the calipers off
the donor vehicle myself. So I fitted the concave fitting into the caliper and on one side fine no problem on the other it wouldnt seal it kept
leaking no matte what I did.
In the end I bit the bullet and bought 2 new braided lines with a bulkhead convex fitting one end to join to the hard lines and the other end with a
normal convex fitting to screw into the caliper.
Problem solved no more leaks.
|
|
|