jon b
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posted on 29/1/09 at 06:47 PM |
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mx5 upright
Please help, can any one tell me what top joint to use, herd it's transit but what jont & age please. jon
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airframefixer
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posted on 29/1/09 at 07:12 PM |
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Moog ES2074R is the Part you want. Its for a Ford Courier/MazdaB2000 Truck.
Andrew
Description
Description
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Bob C
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posted on 29/1/09 at 07:16 PM |
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Wish I'd known that 3 years ago....... ;^)
Reamed mine out for the transit drag link...
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alistairolsen
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posted on 29/1/09 at 08:32 PM |
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what thread is that?
guess its too much to hope for that its m18x1.5?
cheers
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jon b
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posted on 29/1/09 at 10:39 PM |
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many many thanks. jon
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bigrich
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posted on 29/1/09 at 10:41 PM |
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A quick search says M16 x 1.5mm
A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules
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alistairolsen
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posted on 31/1/09 at 02:32 AM |
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bigrich: A part of me panics about going down from 18 to 16 but I guess it will be ok.......
Airframefixer: Where is that pic from? Do you know what rack was used and if there were any issues with clearance between the steering arms and the
lower wishbones?
Cheers!
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liam.mccaffrey
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posted on 1/2/09 at 11:05 AM |
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M16x1,5 it is and Moog ES2074R
when I did it I used a MK2 escort rack, MX5 balljoints and rack extension/adapter pieces
[Edited on 1/2/09 by liam.mccaffrey]
Build Blog
Build Photo Album
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alistairolsen
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posted on 3/2/09 at 08:17 PM |
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bump
Bob Carter used a shortened escort rack to avoid the bump steer, but he remachined the uprights to take the drag links from above.
Has anyone who had mounted the track rod ends from below suffered any clearance issues with the wishbones? How much did you shorten the rack by?
Cheers
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l0rd
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posted on 3/2/09 at 10:52 PM |
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Does anyone know what year Mazda B2000 is this from?
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liam.mccaffrey
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posted on 3/2/09 at 11:06 PM |
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I mounted the original mx5 drag links from underneath and there were no clearance issue with the bones
Build Blog
Build Photo Album
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Bob C
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posted on 4/2/09 at 12:06 AM |
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yep - that's another thing I'd do differently if I were doing it again... It'll still be worth shortening the rack tho'
;^)
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C10CoryM
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posted on 4/2/09 at 01:30 AM |
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Seeing as those are tie-rod ends, are they acceptable for use as a balljoint? I've never seen a tie rod that is cupped on both ends. Meaning
that one will deal with the forces of trying to pull the ball out of the end, but is it designed to have the ball pushed inwards?
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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l0rd
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posted on 4/2/09 at 09:07 AM |
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I can only think that as they are made for pick up trucks which are prawn to be abused, i would imagine that they are strong enough for the job.
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Bob C
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posted on 4/2/09 at 11:12 PM |
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it's upper wishbone - the only ball in/out force is what's needed to swivel the wishbone pivots on the chassis.
Also it could not be more equivalent to the transit tie rod used in the classical locost......
[Edited on 4/2/09 by Bob C]
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C10CoryM
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posted on 5/2/09 at 01:14 AM |
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Well, if it works it works. At worst the balljoint would seperate but it wouldnt pull out. Unless you were flat out it's not going to crash
you.
I just know how little holds some tie rods together so question using them as a upper balljoint. Especially with sticky, or rubber control arm
bushings.
Most of them if you support the body, and give the pivot a little tap inwards will separate quite easily.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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alistairolsen
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posted on 13/2/09 at 01:00 PM |
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Right, went to the factors last night and the only balljoints for a mazda B2000 were remale thread ones like big track rod ends.
Does anyone have an equivalent Quinton Hazel part number, or a model and year?
Cheers
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alistairolsen
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posted on 19/2/09 at 02:22 PM |
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anyone?
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airframefixer
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posted on 20/2/09 at 07:37 PM |
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alistairolsen
Sorry, been a while since I checked this thread. My build is a BEC middy. The ES2074R is a common solution in North America. see my build log here for
more info on the front suspension
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2142
Andrew
Description
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alistairolsen
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posted on 24/2/09 at 11:20 PM |
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had a long read thru your site the other night, looks like an amazing build!
The SDV westfield boys use these:
Im not sure what they are from originally but they look a little more chunky.
Anyone make head or tail of the part number?
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alistairolsen
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:18 PM |
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bump, anyone recognise the box, or have a lead on the part number? I tried it in google but beyond that Im out of inspiration!
Cheers
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alistairolsen
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posted on 28/2/09 at 12:18 PM |
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ok, went to maccess today. Looking through the parts book, all bmw drag links run a 12.6mm cone, so I assume this is correct. They come with two
thread sizes, M14 and M16.
The larger M16x1.5 came fitted to E23 7 Series and old 2002s and it part number QR1786S for the right hand thread.
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l0rd
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posted on 18/6/09 at 08:17 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by alistairolsen
ok, went to maccess today. Looking through the parts book, all bmw drag links run a 12.6mm cone, so I assume this is correct. They come with two
thread sizes, M14 and M16.
The larger M16x1.5 came fitted to E23 7 Series and old 2002s and it part number QR1786S for the right hand thread.
Silly but have to ask.
2 of these should do the job? or do i nead a left hand and a right hand thread?
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alistairolsen
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posted on 18/6/09 at 06:07 PM |
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two right hand
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l0rd
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posted on 18/6/09 at 10:32 PM |
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Thank you. Do you remember a price for them?
How did you check it?
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