Miks15
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 09:32 AM |
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Welding original castings (front hubs)
Following on from my fabricated uprights thread, it was suggested that i start with some new stub axles and fabricated some uprights from scratch. I
want to use my oirgnal BMW hub. So my thought was to cut up the original upright leaving just the stub axle and some material to weld to. Then i can
create a new upright with my dimensions.
SO my question is it possible to weld original castings? I dont see how it would be different to welding normal steel but just wanted to check.
Thanks
Mikkel
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coozer
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 09:33 AM |
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No no no, it will fracture and kill you on the first power run.
Don't do it!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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clairetoo
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 09:36 AM |
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If they are cast steel , it may work - if they are cast iron , forget it !
Its cuz I is blond , innit
Claire xx
Will weld for food......
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 09:59 AM |
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you can get stubs for making trailers,if you can get the sizes of the bearings you may be able to make something up as the trailer ones normally use
ford hubs
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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tommyab
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 10:26 AM |
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Welding to cast steel usually requires different weld procedures than that for normal steel. Otherwise you can end up with cracking.
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snapper
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 12:10 PM |
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You will have no idea how good (or bad ) your welding is.
Far to scary to contemplate.
This sort of engineering should not be attempted by amatures witout proper facilities to prove the weld.
Would you want to do 100+mph into a sweeping corner under braking on home welded hubs
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Miks15
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 01:47 PM |
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fair enough, wont be done then
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big_wasa
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 01:50 PM |
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You would be much better getting a blank set of alloy hubs for Cortina uprights and having them drilled to the bimmer pdc.
Not so locost but imho the best way of getting what you want
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Miks15
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 01:58 PM |
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anyone recomend any good places to get stub axles?
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daviep
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 03:00 PM |
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Get some advice from a fabricator, I suspect that it's quite do able if they are cast steel.
If it was me I would give it a go. You could always try on a scrap piece and give it some treatment with the hammer.
There seem to be a lot of nae sayers on here at the moment. Health and Safety is the most depressing phrase ever invented.
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zilspeed
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 03:01 PM |
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See my last post on the original thread showing two types of stub axle.
Randall Motorsport will sell you stub axles.
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Miks15
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 03:02 PM |
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ye thats a good point, i will speak to a guy i know and get his opinion on it. It would save me alot of time and money if i could do it this way and
ultimatly get a better finished product
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 03:08 PM |
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These days SG Cast iron is the tin top manufacturers material of choice for this type of part --- really not suitable for welding.
Easy way to test for cast iron is to attack it with an angle grinder - if it produces horrible black carbon dust then the part is a cast iron rather
than a steel.
[Edited on 8/3/09 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 05:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
There seem to be a lot of nae sayers on here at the moment. Health and Safety is the most depressing phrase ever invented.
Can't agree with you in the case of a highly stressed safety critical part like an upright. Whacking something with a hammer doesn't
replicate the kind of loadings that a few thousand miles of road use would give, and having a spindle shear off the upright is at best going to cause
significant damage to the car, but could easily cause a serious accident.
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zilspeed
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| posted on 8/3/09 at 08:44 PM |
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As I said previously, I've been there and seen the driver's face after an upright failed when he was in the middle of a ten tenths run.
This was steel onto steel as well.
When he remade them, they had a mechanical fastener as well as the welded joint.
In a light car which weighs no more than it has to, I suggest that the outcome of such a failure is far more likely to result in The Big Accident than
would be the case in your everyday road car.
I have also been at the same track at the same corner when a little 'off' caused a front wishbone failure to puncture the carbon tub and
be sufficiently close to the driver's leg that it ripped the back of his overalls.
We all slag off health and safety, but I've seen enough bad outcomes to take safety a bit seriously. My family need me to continue bringing home
the bacon.
There endeth the sermon... 
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