I love speed :-P
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 05:12 PM |
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Welding the Brackets on the axle
I am now at the stage where I can weld on the brackets for the rear suspention, in the book, it says 2 strip down the axle, now are there any problems
with this like seals etc
Btw the axle I have is the one with the removable diff at the front.
Thanks 4 ur time
Philip Moreton
Don't Steal
The Government doesn’t like the competition
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JJM
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 05:34 PM |
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Shouldnt be any probs-just pop the halfshafts out (easier said that done lol). As long as the bearings are ok as they are a pain to replace it should
be ok. Sounds like an English axle.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 05:35 PM |
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There are no seals anywhere near the heated area, I drained the oil on mine and stood it on the diff flange (after drilling a 30mm hole in my bench).,
then used a spirit level to line up the brackets which I had clamped together with 2 lengths of 25mm ERW to guarantee them being in the same plane.
The stripping of the axle only becomes an issue if you intend burning through the axle tube! (Give the diff a good flush before putting the new oil
in)
 
Rescued attachment AxleBrackets.jpg
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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I love speed :-P
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 05:37 PM |
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so what is the best way of pulling out the half shafts
Phil
Don't Steal
The Government doesn’t like the competition
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JJM
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 05:41 PM |
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By use of a halfshaft puller (slide hammer)-if you can get access to one-or bolt the drum/old disc on backwards and hit with soft hammer plenty of
times!!
[Edited on 21/2/04 by JJM]
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I love speed :-P
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 05:42 PM |
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hammer it is then 
Don't Steal
The Government doesn’t like the competition
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 21/2/04 at 06:21 PM |
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Why go to the trouble, I have found on most of the (old) ford axles, that the lock plate securing bolts shear off rather than undo, you will need new
seals, then you will want new bearings.....
If they ain't broke, leave sleeping dogs lie!!!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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DavidM
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| posted on 23/2/04 at 10:53 PM |
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You can remove the half shafts by removing the retaining bolts, turning the brake backing plate so that it obscures the holes and then screwing the
bolts back in from the diff side. Can't remember if you needed longer bolts or packing though.
This pushes the half shaft out quite easily. The method is described in the supplement at the back of the Haynes Escort Manual.
I used it and it worked a treat. I'll post a copy of the relevant section of the Manual if anyone is interested. Let me know.
Bearing kits and seals are all still available from motor factors, but you'll have difficulty getting hold of the collapsable pinion spacer. I
did see someone advertising them in Classic Ford Magazine this month though.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 13/3/04 at 01:45 PM |
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The tradditional mechanics way of pulling shafts without the special tool was to put an ordinary steel wheel and tyre on (usually back to front for
better access) and hit the TYRE with a maul hammer while pulling by hand at the side opposite. After a few hammer blows swith the side you hit and
the side you pull over and thshft pops out..
Of course and amazing number of people forget to remove the brake back plate retaining bolts. ;-)
When welding on the brakets the danger is that the axle will bend --- support the axle well and on a banjo "english" type axle remove
the diff carrier to lighten it..
I goes without saying weld with the minium heat required for full penetration and weld in short runs with cool off time beteween runs and of course
try and plan the order in which you do the welds to minimise any distiortion.
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 13/3/04 at 06:29 PM |
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Just got to this stage myself, and as I can't weld I'm in a bit of a pickle.
Has anyone tried welding the brackets on in situ? I've got the number for a mobile welder and haven't got the space to make up a jig. Is
it advisable to tack weld the brackets onto the axle in situ then fully weld it out of the car?
cheers
chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 13/3/04 at 06:59 PM |
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I think you may have trouble getting the accuracy while the axle is on the car. If you clamp the brackets to the axle and then transport it to you
chosen weld emporium, you should have no problems, or if you fancy a drive to West Cornwall, I'll do them for a pint
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 13/3/04 at 11:16 PM |
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Cheers mark, think I'll be off to b&q tomorrow for some clamps. Might hold you up on the offer, haven't been down that way for a
couple of years!
Chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 14/3/04 at 08:18 PM |
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Serious offer if you need it
Mark
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 14/3/04 at 08:24 PM |
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cheers mate for the offer,
there's a bloke at work who's one of the best welder's I've ever seen, and for a couple of quid and a pack of hobnob's
will weld anything you want, so think I will be asking him.
Still might pop down one weekend and drink your beer though!
Chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 14/3/04 at 11:43 PM |
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Game on!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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britishtrident
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| posted on 15/3/04 at 04:29 PM |
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- haven't got the space to make up a jig. Is it advisable to tack weld the brackets onto the axle in situ then fully weld it out of the car?
----
Not good idea -- try this
mark the position width wise where the brakets fit on the axle - remove the axle then strip ie remove shafts and if you have a Banjo (english) the
diff carrier (DON'T remove the diff with the Salsbury type.
Tell your welder to weld the brackets on these so the face of the braket is parallel to to the front face where the diff carrier fits (on a Salsbury
type use the proshaft flange).
As I said earlier I used a spirit level and 2 folding work benches for this.
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