Chris Leonard
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 11:00 AM |
|
|
toe in - setting up
I going to set up my toe in and camber this weekend.
Any tips or ideas as to the best way to attack it with limited measuring gear: ruler, string, spirit level, protractor, roofing angle etc
cheers Chris
|
|
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 11:40 AM |
|
|
Suspension Geometries
You may find this interesting:
HERE
|
|
|
timf
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 11:49 AM |
|
|
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=10213
|
|
|
Chris Leonard
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 11:50 AM |
|
|
Thanks - I'll print that off but I was more after practical ways of setting it up. I remember somewhere a posting about running a plumb line
from the back wheels etc
Cheers Chris
|
|
|
Chris Leonard
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 11:57 AM |
|
|
I hit my last post just as timf was appearing - thats what I wanted
thanks
|
|
|
theconrodkid
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 12:13 PM |
|
|
i have a proper tracking gauge if anyone wants to hire it
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
|
|
|
bob
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 06:46 PM |
|
|
How much ? 
Or should i have said how munch
|
|
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 08:41 PM |
|
|
For something non standard, you cannot beat an old fashioned grease plate.
No car has toe in or out when in motion, its just a static setting to compensate for the way the suspension aligns when you are driving.
The grease plate measures the deflection of the wheel at it is driven over it at about 7-10 mph. You just adjust the tracking to read zero on the
measurements on the plate.
The only problem is that I havent seen one in years, Dunlop used to make the best, it had carry handle which if you hit it with a crossply, would ruin
the tyre!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
Liam
|
| posted on 1/4/04 at 11:40 PM |
|
|
Toe:
Strap plank/steel tube to wheels horizontally. Project down to floor, measure, and do some trig.
Camber:
strap board/plank to wheel vertically and use big roofers square or whatever.
Worked well setting up a westy me and a mate had. For camber we pumped the tyres up to loads of psi so that there was no deformation at the contact
patch to throw out the camber measurement. Bit of flat floor helps.
I've now gone all high-tech and I've drilled some holes in some 1" thick bits of ply which I can then fit to the hubs instead of
wheels and take more accurate measurements. Ya know - a bit like what they do in F1
Liam
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 2/4/04 at 08:56 AM |
|
|
F1 plywood.
I hear they've brought the process more up to date and now use MDF like the changing rooms team. Bolt some bars to both your front hubs
facing forward and measure just in front of the chassis, then measure the distance further out at a set distance. If the second is less you have toe
in obviously. I was never very good at maths so if anyone has a formula to convert this to a degree measurement it would be handy. Camber you can use
a spirit level with an adjustable bubble, try saying that when you've had a few.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
