FFTS
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 10:38 PM |
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Steering play and drift.
Heres the problem.
Sierra rack. Steering wheel centered whilst driving and it turns maybe 10 degrees or an inch either way with no response and feels a little loose.
Then over that turns the wheels. The effect is that you have a continuous overcorrection as each time you have to go through the dead zone in the
middle by which time the car has drifted a little and so its easy to over correct the opposite way.
What should I be checking to source the problem?
Chris.
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 10:45 PM |
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Sounds like the teeth are stripped inside the rack. Replace the rack or take apart and replace the bits inside.
Ben
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blakep82
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 10:50 PM |
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dagenham dustbins 
i take it all your ball joints etc are ok? UJs all nice and tight?
does it only do this when the rack is centered?
new rack is probably the easiest way.
like ben says its maybe some damage inside, but if any teeth on the rack were missing, it wouldn't necessarily be the same amount it misses by.
depends on the internals,
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Chippy
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 10:56 PM |
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Could be two or three things, worn TRE's, rack tensioner has worked loose, or possably the UJ's on the end of the rack are loose or worn.
TRE's are easy to check for play. For the other two you need to slide of the rack rubbers to check the UJ's. Disconnect the steering from
the rack to check the tensioner for looseness. Couple of hours tomorrow will see it done. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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FFTS
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 10:56 PM |
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Thanks for the help.
Once the steering responds it seems ok and you can feel the pressure through the wheel. Just goes slack in the middle.
Now come to think of it.. I've only driven it once tonight and not sure if the slack happens for the 1st inch of steering back the opposite
way???
Ahha... me thinks thats it. Wherever you steer too no matter how far left say.. I think its the first inch back the opposite way which goes slack then
responds.
I'll have to check tomorrow.
[Edited on 16/10/09 by FFTS]
Chris.
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blakep82
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 11:01 PM |
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if its slack for 10 degrees everywhere in its travel, it may just need adjusted (pinion too far away from the rack for example)
you shouldn't need to drive to find out if thats whats wrong. just moving the steering in the garage will do
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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robinj66
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| posted on 16/10/09 at 11:36 PM |
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My Robin Hood developed this problem (on the way to a track day GGGRRRR! ) - check where the inner column goes into the outer column - I bet you
have play there, meaning the nylon bushes have given up and the shaft needs drilling and bolting up.
It's weird that the dteering is fine after turning the wheel a certain amount but that's exactly what mine did
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james h
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 03:59 AM |
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I had this - turns out my modified sierra rack had come apart where it was re-welded, therefore giving a dead zone whenever turning the steering
wheel. Check the steering rack whilst dry steering in the garage.
James
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 07:28 AM |
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I worked on an etype that had this when i was in Switzerland. Turned out to be the steering rack mounts had collapsed (only 3 weeks old  )
Not sure how your rack is mounted but might be worth checking.
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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mookaloid
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 08:16 AM |
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check all the column joints and UJ's - a failed needle roller in the column UJ will give these symptoms too.
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 09:35 AM |
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Unless you have dismantled the rack and totally screwed up the adjustment it id highly unlikely to be the rack because a worn rack generally only
has excessive play in the centre of its travel
(1) Check the UJ pinch bolts ---- make sure that clamping pinch bolts are set screws eg fully threaded bolts.
(2) Check the rack mountings are tight.
(3) I know it sounds much too obvious but check the steering wheel is tight and not moving on its splines.
[Edited on 17/10/09 by britishtrident]
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FFTS
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 01:54 PM |
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Ahhha.. Just traced most of the slack up the colum, took the wheel off and hey presto the big nut thing needed tightening and most of the play is now
gone. However the track rod ends were a bit loose. One tightened ok and the other isnt as the threaded stud is just spinning with the nut.
What now???
Chris.
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prawnabie
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 01:59 PM |
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Put a jack under the ball part of the rod end as you tighen it
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FFTS
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| posted on 17/10/09 at 05:00 PM |
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Hee he  Thanks
I'm learning all the time.
Chris.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 18/10/09 at 02:03 PM |
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Its worth checking the pinion too as these have a tendency to come loose. Just take the slack out by tightening the pinion retaining nut.
Phil
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FFTS
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| posted on 18/10/09 at 04:08 PM |
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Thanks for the diagram (I need a dummy's guide haha)
The track rod end on the side that spins will twist between the ball and the upright if you twist the rod. Cant get a jack under the ball itself as
this is in the inner dish of the alloy.
Would I jack the car onto an axle stand, remove the wheel and then jack the ball to tey to tighten it? The nut seem to be well fixed to the threaded
stud which turns easily with it when using a spanner.
Chris.
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 18/10/09 at 04:42 PM |
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Yep, take wheel off, then jack under the ball joint.
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
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