boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 04:52 PM |
|
|
cortina discs
am i right in thinking i need to pull the hubb assembly apart to remove my discs???
cheers
barry
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
|
|
Seven_Monkey
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 05:15 PM |
|
|
Hi Boggle, from memory you'll have to remove the hub from the upright as the disc is bolted on the back of it. Not too hard of a job but grab
some new oil seals for the hubs.
Rich
|
|
|
big-vee-twin
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 05:24 PM |
|
|
Here's a pic with the disc removed, take off the hub and open the tab s unbolt bash with hammer etc..
 
Cortina Upright Completed
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
|
|
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 05:40 PM |
|
|
its a bugger cos the hubs have all been recently refurbished....i want to cross drill my discs, so im going to have to remove them.....
will i still need new sills???
[Edited on 10/3/10 by boggle]
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
kendo
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 05:55 PM |
|
|
Disc removal
I'm pretty certain you don't take the hub apart.
Its caliper off and undo the screws holding the disc to the hub.
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 06:03 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by kendo
I'm pretty certain you don't take the hub apart.
Its caliper off and undo the screws holding the disc to the hub.
That would certainly get you a disk that is not attached to the hub, but you wouldn't be able to remove it.
You have to remove the hub from the spindle in order to remove the disk on the Cortina.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 06:07 PM |
|
|
If you need to ask you don't have the knowledge to put it back together in correct adjustment.
Also don't cross drill your discs it has little advantage and will make a real black horrible mess -- normal brake discs are made of
spheroidal graphite cast iron which isn't easy to drill and produces a lot of horrible black carbon dust when drilled.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 06:20 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
If you need to ask you don't have the knowledge to put it back together in correct adjustment.
Also don't cross drill your discs it has little advantage and will make a real black horrible mess -- normal brake discs are made of
spheroidal graphite cast iron which isn't easy to drill and produces a lot of horrible black carbon dust when drilled.
i'm guessing he'd actually be water/laser cutting, but thats a another issue 
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 06:36 PM |
|
|
ok...got the discs off...easy peasy...
but too easy thou.....
the hub nuts where finger tight...
does anyone know the tightening sequence????
many thanks
barry
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 06:56 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
If you need to ask you don't have the knowledge to put it back together in correct adjustment.
Also don't cross drill your discs it has little advantage and will make a real black horrible mess -- normal brake discs are made of
spheroidal graphite cast iron which isn't easy to drill and produces a lot of horrible black carbon dust when drilled.
im not use to these old type things you see......the only time ive touched taper bearings is on my landrover....that needed tightening up then
releasing then re tightening...
as for drilling discs.....
i find they do make a difference..especially if the car gets driven hard...and i have drilled loads.....never had a problem.....???
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 07:03 PM |
|
|
tighten to 27 lb f ft (3.7kg f m)with a torque wrench while turning the hub to make sure everything's central and free moving, then UNDO the nut
by 90 degrees to give the correct end float according to haynes
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 07:21 PM |
|
|
thank you blake.......big kiss for you mwah
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 07:33 PM |
|
|
crikey ha ha ha
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by boggle
[as for drilling discs.....
i find they do make a difference..especially if the car gets driven hard...and i have drilled loads.....never had a problem.....???
That you've noticed...
Even disk designed to be drilled can suffer from cracking, standard drilled disks will crack at some stage.
|
|
|
flak monkey
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 08:39 PM |
|
|
I wouldnt bther drilling them. Its difficult to get the discs to working temp anyway on a seven type car.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 08:43 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by boggle
im not use to these old type things you see......the only time ive touched taper bearings is on my landrover....that needed tightening up then
releasing then re tightening...
They need adjusted to a running clearance otherwise the wheel siezes solid after a couple of miles.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 09:12 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by boggle
[as for drilling discs.....
i find they do make a difference..especially if the car gets driven hard...and i have drilled loads.....never had a problem.....???
That you've noticed...
Even disk designed to be drilled can suffer from cracking, standard drilled disks will crack at some stage.
i have seen small fractures on the subaru discs....i tried the ebc dimpled discs....didnt go much on them.....
i know a well respected motorsport supplyer buys standard dics and have them drilled.....
thought that the holes helped to dress the pad and stop gas build up?
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 09:13 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
quote:
Originally posted by boggle
im not use to these old type things you see......the only time ive touched taper bearings is on my landrover....that needed tightening up then
releasing then re tightening...
They need adjusted to a running clearance otherwise the wheel siezes solid after a couple of miles.
how do you do this???
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
Mark Allanson
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 09:37 PM |
|
|
Put the wheel on the fully assembled hub except for the dust cap, spin the wheel while gently tightening the retaining nut until it nips up. Rock the
wheel and very slowly undo the retaining nut while slowly revolving the wheel. As soon as you can JUST perceive play, take the wheel off and lock the
nut.
Drive for a couple of miles and check the perceived play is still just perceived!
On a Tina, they wouldn't seize, they would brake up and give alternating 15° and -15° of camber! Scarey
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
|
|
|
boggle
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 09:48 PM |
|
|
thanks everyone for your input and help...
i will drill the discs and see how i go...
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 10/3/10 at 11:30 PM |
|
|
Cross drilled discs
[Edited on 10/3/10 by MikeRJ]
|
|
|
procomp
|
| posted on 11/3/10 at 09:34 AM |
|
|
Hi
This comment. "i know a well respected motorsport supplyer buys standard dics and have them drilled..... " is a bit worrying.
Clearly not that well respected then if they are doing this procedure. Drilled discs do not give enough of a gap to prevent gas build up. The better
way is to go for Grooved discs. These have the groves terminating to the outer diameter so the gasses vent to fresh air hence no build up of gasses.
They also wipe the pad surface clean upon passing it. But even these are prone to failure in some applications where the grooves have been machined in
with square cornered grooves. The better ones are ground grooves with a radius in the bottom.
But quite frankly if you are reaching the point of having a problem where such items are needed on a seven type car. You are using the brakes too
much.
Cheers Matt
[Edited on 11/3/10 by procomp]
|
|
|
TimC
|
| posted on 11/3/10 at 09:47 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by procomp
But quite frankly if you are reaching the point of having a problem where such items are needed on a seven type car. You are using the brakes too
much.
Cheers Matt
That made me smile - I'm going to miss Locost racing where it's almost true that if you brake you lose!
|
|
|
boggle
|
| posted on 11/3/10 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
i went to buy some drilled discs for my old escort cab from a motorsport supplyer in kent....
they had none in stock and i asked when they would get some more....i was told that the discs where over at the local engineers being drilled....when
i told the bloke i was a toolmaker he suggested that i drilled some blank discs myself...
i did this and had no problems what so ever with them... i even went on to do my mates 300hp rs turbo, grooved and drilled, several high powered
subarus, and a few other cars.....none ever cracked or broke and everyone said they were finding less fade under hard breaking......
i drive 90% twisty back roads so i use the brakes alot, and at times i drive hard....
if it is wrong to drill a solid disk then why do people sell them? and why do manufacturers fit them????
im confused as feck now as to why it would be a bad thing to spend 30 mins of my time doing it???
im not dissagreing with people just trying to understand???
thanks to all for your comments...
barry
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 11/3/10 at 10:24 AM |
|
|
Drilling does not in any way improve the cooling of a disk. It might help if you have a serious pad out-gassing problem, but the chances of this
being a problem on a seven with modern brake pads is negligible.
You simply won't find drilled disks used in any serious motorsport these days. Drilled disc were used some years ago when it could help with
the pad materials of the day, but the reduction in disk life (and potential for failure) was quickly discovered.
In answer to your question, they are sold because people think they look pretty, it's nothing to do with performance.
|
|
|
