tony-devon
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 06:38 PM |
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rosejointed suspension
Hi all, new here and got a few questions
how many of you are running rosejoint wisbones etc?
I am primarily looking at this method as it makes connection to the main frame easier for me, and as my build will have all this fully exposed it will
look nice.
BUT how long will these last in real life on the roads?
and what sizes are you running
I had priced up bushes, crushtubes, tube for the bush etc etc and the difference was negligable, if anything it was a bit cheaper to run with
rosejoints
main frame/spine of the trike is designed and planned to be 1.5" 10g CDS tube, with 1.25" 12g CDS tube for the rear frame and the
wishbones.
I like them strong LOL
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 06:40 PM |
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Quality of the joints is everything --- cheap joints don't last
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 06:46 PM |
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I purchased 1/2" cheap jobs from Mcgill, tightened up the front steering, noticeable difference I just need to do the rear now as it has made
this feel loose.
Just used on the track so do not have a clue on longevity, Westfields have a smaller size than this.
I just spray with bike chain grease occasionally to cut down wear.
For me good choice, on the road really do not know probally a bit more bumpy!
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lsdweb
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 08:05 PM |
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Me
 
Rescued attachment wishbones.jpg
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lsdweb
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 08:08 PM |
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And steering arms
 
Rescued attachment steering.JPG
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 09:13 PM |
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Not sure I would use them on the road (many do) I guess it depends on how many miles you will do, they should not last as long as the bushes (if you
use stainless crush tubes). Like others above quality is a problem, and on road car they need to deal with road salt, dirt/grit ect..
Like you say using bushes requires them to be aligned and makes life a little more difficult, but nothing that a jig cant fix (and if you do this you
can swap between spherical bearings and bushes by making new bones)..
Dan
Dan
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TimC
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 09:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lsdweb
And steering arms
Some of us have been looking at these same old pics for 18 months Chap!
Yawn. 
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 09:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by TimC
quote:
Originally posted by lsdweb
And steering arms
Some of us have been looking at these same old pics for 18 months Chap!
Yawn.
Was thinking the exact same thing!!!
Edited for the OP - if you are using rodends on the road, then you're prob bst investing in the rubber "boot's" that
encapsulate the rosejoints and keeps all the road silt/dirt out of them...
[Edited on 7/4/10 by Steve Hignett]
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 7/4/10 at 09:39 PM |
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I used the rubber boots on my Autograsser, very low milage compared to a kit on the road but much more movement & higher shock loads & never
had a problem, the boots kept them clean inside.
However, if one of your reasons for using rosejoints is because they look good, well the boots dont really! Adds more expense & a bugger to fit
too!
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lsdweb
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 07:59 AM |
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quote:
Some of us have been looking at these same old pics for 18 months Chap
We've started back on it! Dampers being ordered this week hopefully!
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coozer
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 09:47 AM |
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Another advantage to rose joints is when you crash.... they will snap rather than ripping the brackets off the chassis etc, this make for a cheaper
easier repair job...
Just need some meaty for my 4x4 rear arms and jobs a guddin...
Anyone know a good cheap supply for good quality parts?
[Edited on 8/4/10 by coozer]
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tony-devon
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 08:29 PM |
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ok cool thanks guys
I am at the laying things out and designing stage at the moment, but taking the opportunity to squirrel some money away and buy goodies without the
wife noticing LOL
currently working out what sort of geometry for the rear wishbones, and angles for shafts and the like
as this is bike engined, the diff will be upside down.
I found this company and they seemed reasonable to me, but Im not 100% sure of the specs on the joints, hence joining this forum
these are what I have my eye on
http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=543
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 09:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tony-devon
as this is bike engined, the diff will be upside down.
What's the reason for this?
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tony-devon
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| posted on 8/4/10 at 10:18 PM |
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on shaft drive bike engines the shafts generally exit on the left of the motor, and the shaft will rotate the opposite direction to a car ie clockwise
when you look at it from directly behind, if it exits on the right of the engine, you dont need to flip the diff over. to do with the fact that you
have a 90 degree bevel box at the back wheel
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tony-devon
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| posted on 10/5/10 at 12:13 PM |
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sorry to bring this back up again, but looks like its time to sort out this matter for my project and make some decisions
LSDWEB could you tell me please what size them joints are on your setup
IM going to buy the rear uprights, but make the wishbones and frame myself, so until I got all the dimensions etc I cant begin to work things out
I will be starting with a max overall width, then working inboard from there.
for MSVA go over 1600 wide and its a right royal pain in the bum
aiming for 1550mm just to give some margin for tyres etc
heavy is good, heavy is reliable, and if it breaks, hit them with it
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