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Author: Subject: How Much Brake Fluid........
Bumble

posted on 10/6/10 at 01:58 PM Reply With Quote
How Much Brake Fluid........

Roughly how much brake fluid will it take to fill a 7 type car from scratch. Only reason I ask is trying to decide whether to buy 500ml or 1L of Automec Silicone Brake fluid and it ain't cheap.
Thanks,
Matt

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StrikerChris

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:01 PM Reply With Quote
Bite the bullet and get a litre.You'll use it all up at some point.......
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flak monkey

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:04 PM Reply With Quote
Normally under 0.5 litre, but I always buy a litre. its only about £4 anyway!





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BenB

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:06 PM Reply With Quote
Do you definately want to use the silicon stuff? I haven't heard good reviews....
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carpmart

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:09 PM Reply With Quote
Dot5.1 - don't bother with the 'everlasting' synthetic stuff! Mineral is best!





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minitici

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:31 PM Reply With Quote
Other than not dissolving your paintwork - I see no advantages is going for Silicone brake fluid.

I've heard that with little used vehicles, seals can become stuck in cylinders when using silicone.

[Edited on 10/6/10 by minitici]

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iank

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:33 PM Reply With Quote
If it's already had non-silicone in then be very careful as they aren't compatible and you may wreck every seal in the system.





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Anonymous

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BenB

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:35 PM Reply With Quote
http://www.britishmotoring.net/current_issue/BritishM-0904_How-to_full.pdf

interesting reading.....

silicon is non hydroscopic but 3 times as compressible.....

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mookaloid

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:43 PM Reply With Quote
well I have run several cars on silicone brake fluid and I do quite like it.

It has several advantages other than not spoiling paintwork - which is a big advantage in itself.

the main one for me is it doesn't attract moisture which means that the braking system lasts longer because the internals don't end up rusting and failing like it does with normal fluid which gradually deteriorates and is why the fluid needs changing in a normal car every couple of years.

I've also used it on tracks and for hill climbing and not perceived any disadvantages in performance.

it is good for vehicles which stand unused for long periods of time like many of our vehicles do over winter.

As iank rightly says though it is totally incompatible with mineral fluid so only use it in a completely new system. if any of the components are second hand then stick with mineral fluid.

Cheers

Mark





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iank

posted on 10/6/10 at 02:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
http://www.britishmotoring.net/current_issue/BritishM-0904_How-to_full.pdf

interesting reading.....

silicon is non hydroscopic but 3 times as compressible.....


Silicon is almost uncompressable, silicone on the other hand ...





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Anonymous

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BenB

posted on 10/6/10 at 03:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
http://www.britishmotoring.net/current_issue/BritishM-0904_How-to_full.pdf

interesting reading.....

silicon is non hydroscopic but 3 times as compressible.....


Silicon is almost uncompressable, silicone on the other hand ...


Very true Bizarrely never considered the difference!!!

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RIE

posted on 10/6/10 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
http://www.britishmotoring.net/current_issue/BritishM-0904_How-to_full.pdf

interesting reading.....

silicon is non hydroscopic but 3 times as compressible.....


I would guess you mean non-hygroscopic?

I'll stop being pedantic now.*








*well, I will in 23.762 seconds time

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RichardK

posted on 10/6/10 at 07:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
it is good for vehicles which stand unused for long periods of time.

Cheers

Mark


You getting some for the indy then

Cheers

R





Gallery updated 11/01/2011

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David Jenkins

posted on 10/6/10 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
I started off with silicone brake fluid - I would never use it again.

I never, ever, managed to get a good feel on the brake pedal - it always felt like it needed bleeding - apparently it is very easy to trap air in the fluid when pouring it into the master cylinder. It can also cause corrosion, as it doesn't absorb water in the way that the conventional fluid does, and can also lead to brake fade for the same reason - you can end up with water next to your brake pistons, which boils when the brakes get hot.

Yes, ordinary fluid absorbs water, but that gets taken out of the system each time you change the fluid - you do change it every 2 years or so, don't you?

BTW: It's a total PITA to change back to conventional fluid if you change your mind - it took me about 4 or 5 changes to get rid of it.

[Edited on 10/6/10 by David Jenkins]






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02GF74

posted on 10/6/10 at 07:43 PM Reply With Quote
^^^^ wot he said plus if meory serves me well, it is less densetan water so if water does get into the system, it will be right at teh bottom, usually the pistons to correode them plus being the hottest part, would boil the water first.

.... bit going off topic slightly, is there any data on how much water is absorbed into the brake fluid over time?

I mean, it isnot like the car is being used as a submarine so how much water vapour is in the air (UK climate) then how small is the breather hole in the master clyinder and there is not much moveemnt of gas via that hole plus the rubber membrance seals to prevent the entry of water, make me wonder.






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britishtrident

posted on 12/6/10 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by carpmart
Dot5.1 - don't bother with the 'everlasting' synthetic stuff! Mineral is best!


Not Mineral ! Mineral fluid will destroy a normal brake system.

Normal Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 brake fluid is glycol based

[Edited on 12/6/10 by britishtrident]





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