Major Stare
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 posted on 2/7/10 at 08:12 PM |
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Front upright bearing replacement.. how?
Nearside front pads are not making full contact on the disk.
When the car is jacked up, spinning the wheel, i can hear the bearings.
How do i replace the bad wheel bearings or is it a new upright?
Jon "FISH"
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 2/7/10 at 08:18 PM |
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Do you have Cortina uprights? they may just want adjusting.
If they are Cortina there are two sets of bearings in the hub the middle of the will just fall out and the outer race needs knocking out as they are
taper bearings.
Try repacking and adjusting first
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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omega0684
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| posted on 2/7/10 at 08:23 PM |
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(FOR SIERRA UPRIGHTS)
before taking apart put new bearings in the freezer over night
then the following day
take off rear cap,
undo big nut and knock out stubb axle.
remove bearing seals with screw driver or similar.
knock out old bearing with large persuader! (hammer)
stick clean upright in the oven for a few hours to let metal expand
then take out with gloves (obviously) - take bearings from the freezer and drop them into the upright (might need tapping in!)(DO THIS AS QUICKLY AS
POSSIBLE)
Grease up once cooled and put in new seals,
rebuild & job done!
HTH's
[Edited on 2/7/10 by omega0684]
I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!
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deezee
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| posted on 2/7/10 at 10:19 PM |
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I changed by Sierra Bearings over in my garage, with a vice and decent drift. Took 20 mins each. Didn't need to freeze the bearings or cook
the upright, they aren't that hard to change.
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 4/7/10 at 08:37 AM |
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One point to bear in mind, ( I posted this in a reply many moons ago ) after a certain year the nuts on the fronts are handed.
tony
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Major Stare
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| posted on 4/7/10 at 07:39 PM |
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This afternoon i have done and found the following, so need some advise.....
Reason for doing this is ;- MOT test last month found noisy bearings and inside of brake disc is only having half of the pad in contact with the
disk.
(1) Removing wheel, the mating face of the hub to the wheel and the bearing cap is oily damp, like its been sprayed wd40.
(2) Lock pin and nut lock washer removed and shaft nut loosens fairly easy with an adjustable spanner. Both covered in grease.
(3) Hub removed and bearing unit removed very easy. Inside hub full of grease.
Hub and uprights are Cortina.
Does (1), (2) and (3) sound "normal"?
[Edited on 4/7/10 by Major Stare]
Jon "FISH"
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 4/7/10 at 08:32 PM |
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2 and 3 are normal 1 could be grease escaping past the hub cover. Clean out the grease from inside the hub and you should feel 2 or 3 grooves behind
each outer bearing, use a drift through the hub and knock each of the bearings outwards to remove. To refit the bearings squeeze as much grease as you
can get into each bearing assembly , separate the inner and outer bearings and CAREFULLY drift the bearing into the hub ensuring that the larger of
the tapers is facing the outer sudes of the hub (like an arrow pointing into the hub from both sides) A bearing drift or a brass drift helps. When
each outer bearing is in place place the larger of the 2 inner bearings into the hub and fit the grease seal, fit the smaller of the 2 inner bearings
then fit the hub/disc assembly to the stub axle . Carefully tighten the hub nut until all play is removed from the hub bearing(you can normally
tighten the nut by hand without using any tools) DO NOT over tighten as this will cause damage . Would expect the job to take 10 minutes or so .
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Major Stare
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| posted on 4/7/10 at 09:28 PM |
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Erm, think that makes sence.
Shopping list tomorrow......... find Cortina bearing and cheap Drift tool !
Jon "FISH"
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