bi22le
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| posted on 21/8/10 at 05:46 PM |
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checking ball joints (on Cortina nubs)
Following on from this:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=140869
I think I should check the ball joints to makes sure its not them making the noise.
Now if I was going to check the movement im thinking just get a bit of wood and put it in such a way that it has a pivot. Then try to prise the top
and bottom of the joint apart while looking for any movement.
I have done this with quite alot of force and there is no movement. I take it this means they are ok?
Thanks for your help.
Oh and im yet to check the wheel bearings. I have not got a big enough spanner to remove the grease cover from the middle of the alloy (Hi Spec) hub!!
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/8/10 at 09:55 PM |
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If there's no play with a lever (try both pushing and pulling the ball in and out of the socket) then jack it up and get hold of the wheel at 12
and 6 o'clock and try rocking up and down; Any play there will be either the joint or play in the bearing. Put both hands at 6 o'clock
and try pulling; Any play will be the bottom joint most likely. Then try 3+9 o'clock and feel for play; there will be either track rod end or
track rod inner joint or bearing. Spin the wheel and listen or feel the upright while it's spinning for any bearing rumble. If you feel any
play in any of these tests get an assitant to either look or rock it while you look. The other suspect could be bushes but you might trace that the
same way. Bearings don't normally make knocking noises.
You should feel very slight play in the (tapper roller) bearing. It shouldn't have no play at all or it won't last very long. The only
reason you'll need to take the grease cap off is either to adjust the bearing if there's excess play or check it's not too tight if
there's no play (or change it if knackered).
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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bi22le
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| posted on 21/8/10 at 10:49 PM |
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Cheers for the advice Adrian, I take it that the tapper bearing is the main bearing that the wheel and hub spins on?
At the moment I have kind of checked what you said and the only movement is from the wheel when rocked so I will try to check the centre nut under the
cover.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/8/10 at 11:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
I take it that the tapper bearing is the main bearing that the wheel and hub spins on?
the only movement is from the wheel when rocked so I will try to check the centre nut under the cover.
Yes thats the wheel bearing. Cortina/escort hubs have adjustable tapper bearings. These require end float (ie. slight play) Best way to adjust (or
explain) is to take off the cap, remove split pin and lock washer, then (with the wheel on is easiest for the inexperienced) adjust the nut untill you
can just feel play in the bearing by rocking top and bottom of the wheel. Then refit washer and split pin.
Get someone else to rock it while you look at/feel the joint to make sure the play isn't the bottom joint.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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