Fishface
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 04:10 PM |
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changing a pinion seal
Im changing the pinion oil seal on my axle which I think is a cortina mark 3 atlas axle, (2lt with the lugs on the top) and really need an extract
from a haynes manual etc. Cant seem to find anything out on the web that helps and from what I can make out I dont want to be fitting it wrong as it
will be coming back round to bite me. Is anyone able to help, any advice would be gratefully recieved
Thanks
Rob
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macc man
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 04:30 PM |
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This is an easy repair. Remove diff flange counting number of turns of nut. Remove old seal with screwdriver or use 2 self tappers scewed into seal
and use puller. Tap new seal on using a suitable size socket. Refit flange and tighten to correct torque. Carefull not to over tighten or you will
alter the pre-load.
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daviep
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 05:11 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by macc man
This is an easy repair. Remove diff flange counting number of turns of nut. Remove old seal with screwdriver or use 2 self tappers scewed into seal
and use puller. Tap new seal on using a suitable size socket. Refit flange and tighten to correct torque. Carefull not to over tighten or you will
alter the pre-load.
Did you mean to type "Refit flange and tighten to correct torque."
Surely the point of counting the exact amount of turns of the nut is to put it back into exactly the same position?
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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Fishface
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 05:12 PM |
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slight problem, already undone it with counting turns.....doh
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Fishface
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 05:12 PM |
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sorry should say WITHOUT counting turns
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big_wasa
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 05:22 PM |
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Then its going to need to be done properly. You could nip it up and guess it, but if wrong it will soon bugger the diff.
I did the same as you and just bought another axle. Not that easy these days with them being a bit thin on the ground.
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daviep
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 05:41 PM |
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Oh dear
Problem is there is a collapsable spacer which sets the preload on the pinion bearings. If you over tighten the nut then the spacer will be collapsed
further and the preload will be too high and run the bearings. If you under tighten the nut then the pinion will have end float/play and will wreck
the pinion and/or crown wheel.
You really need to get a new spacer and set up the preload properly, I'm not familiar with the Atlas, but this may require stripping the rest of
the diff.
I would seek advice from someone with experience on this axle.
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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Fishface
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 05:45 PM |
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Thanks Davie
I have brought a new preload spacer by fluke really so thats all set to go. I was hoping it might be a case of putting it on and just tightening it up
to the correct torque settings. At least now I know not to rush it and wait till I know what im doing.
Cheers
Rob
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snapper
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| posted on 31/12/10 at 07:10 PM |
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I just happen to have a Mk3 cortina manual.
There are 2 types of drive pinion spacer, one is fixed length and easy to refit, the second with collapsable spacer is a bit of a faff.
First bit about removing the old spacers says, use a spring balance or torque wrench to record the torque required to turn the flange and note this
Note the position of the flange relative to the splines.
The rebuild instructions say, prevent the flange from turning while you slowly tighten the nut until the same turning torque is achieved, I assume the
process is, tighten with locked flange, release flange turn with torque wrench, if more force needed relic flange tighten etc.
Then when correct turning force is achieved further tighten 2 to 3 ft/lbs.
That's about it, can't get to a scanner for a week or so until back at work
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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Fishface
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| posted on 2/1/11 at 03:14 PM |
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cheers for that. Sounds like im Bo##ocked then! Also tried my second new pinion oils seal and its wrong size again, this is becoming a frickin
nightmare now. Wish I had just let it leak 
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tul214
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| posted on 2/1/11 at 03:53 PM |
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I found that there are two types of Cortina axle fitted to the S6.
More often than not they used a Koln type axle and the internals are smaller than the rarer, stronger Atlas type axle.
The Atlas axle has the diff cover plate bolts evenly spaced around the bac. The Koln type has the top and botom bolts un-evenly spaced to the
others...if that makes sense?
I found that the crush tube that Burton sells for the cortina axle was too big for my Koln type diff, possibly why your seal is wrong too???
As others have said, setting the pre-load is a skilled job and probably best left for an expert.
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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