blakep82
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:04 PM |
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bleeding brakes on your own
i know this isn't the best idea, they say its best to have 2 people doing, which i'd probably agree with, but i'm going to have to
do this myself i think.
i know you can get the things which suck the fluid through, how much are they? do they really work?
i've got 2 master cylinders and balance bar set up. the back brakes have 1 pipe to the back, then it splits at the axle, and goes to the
wheels
fronts are 2 seperate pipes from the MC to the wheels.
is there any 1 way valve type systems? a kit with 2 valves, and some tubing for the bleed screw for example? that would be pretty easy i guess.
never had to bleed brakes before, and for some reason, its a bit of a mystery to me how it works! lol 
and where can i buy new bleed screws? what size ones do i need for sierra calipers? will a motor factor have them?
[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
i know this isn't the best idea, they say its best to have 2 people doing, which i'd probably agree with, but i'm going to have to
do this myself i think.
i know you can get the things which suck the fluid through, how much are they? do they really work?
i've got 2 master cylinders and balance bar set up. the back brakes have 1 pipe to the back, then it splits at the axle, and goes to the
wheels
fronts are 2 seperate pipes from the MC to the wheels.
is there any 1 way valve type systems? a kit with 2 valves, and some tubing for the bleed screw for example? that would be pretty easy i guess.
never had to bleed brakes before, and for some reason, its a bit of a mystery to me how it works! lol
and where can i buy new bleed screws? what size ones do i need for sierra calipers? will a motor factor have them?
[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]
Go to a motorcycle shop. They sell the little one way valves that allow you to bleed brakes on your own.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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blakep82
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:12 PM |
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ah cool, will that work properly on the back though? just wondering if the T in the hoses will trap air? or do you do both at the same time?
just this sort of thing?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195481_langId_-1_categoryId_165695#dtab
[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]
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NigeEss
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:14 PM |
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Tried a few things over the years.............
A pipe on the bleed nipple whis has the other end plugged but also has a small incision.
The pedal pressure opens the slit which closeswhen pressure released. Often air can be
sucked past the nipple threads .
Easy bleed, works great IF you can get the air tight seal on the master cylinder cap.
A long stick through an open door to press the pedal with.
A variation of the above, I found a small pneumatic ram which I rigged up tp push the pedal
for me from a tap on an air line  Worked brill till I lent it out and never got it back 
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
ah cool, will that work properly on the back though? just wondering if the T in the hoses will trap air? or do you do both at the same time?
just this sort of thing?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195481_langId_-1_categoryId_165695#dtab
[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]
Thats it. They work fine for me. As above though, dont undo the nipples too much or youll suck air through the thread. Do one side at a time, and
all the air will come out. Should be fine on the back.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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blakep82
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:20 PM |
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ah, so how does the easy bleed thing work? why does it need a air tight seal on the master cylinder? thought it just sucked (or pushed) fluid through
one way or another?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:21 PM |
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Gravity works, just takes time as you release the bleed nipple and wait for the fluid to drip out.
You can also try drawing the fluid out rather than pushing, as you are always at the bleed nipple, you need something to create a vacumn for this,
large syringe and a bit of rubber tube should do it, I would not recommend sucking 
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blakep82
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| posted on 26/1/11 at 11:31 PM |
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yeah, don't think gravity will be on my side with this one
think i might go with that valve richard was talking about. i don't doubt the whole lot will have to be redone at some point, so don't
need perfect operation yet, just want to see them work
how much fluid am i likely to need? i guess a litre will go quite far since the hoses are so narrow (but long)
2 litres?
[Edited on 26/1/11 by blakep82]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 12:28 AM |
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Easy bleed works well.
It puts the whole system under constant pressure by pumping fluid into the top of the reservoir (hence the need for a good seal) which then allows you
to just open each nippple for as long as it takes to clear the air.
The bonus over 2 man is that you dont have to 'lossen- press -tighten - release - loosen - press - tighten- release'.
It also uses a extra reservoir of fluid so you dont run out and start pushing air back in leading you back to square one. You just need a spare tyre
with a decent amount of air in to pressurise the easybleed system
Even with an extra man available, id still use easybleed.
[Edited on 27/1/11 by loggyboy]
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indykid
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 12:55 AM |
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take the nipple out, grease the threads and refit.
clear plastic hose on the nipple looping up from the nipple, then into a jar of brake fluid with the end held below the fluid level.
open bleed nipple, sit in the driver's seat, press the pedal 5 times, check the hose for bubbles. if bubbles, repeat. when no more bubbles,
lock up the nipple, check reservoir level, move on.
easibleeds are a double edged sword. when they work, they're grand. when they don't, you fill the fluid with tiny bubbles as it cavitates
in the transfer pipe. then it's game over and start again for a full fluid flush
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pajsh
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 07:52 AM |
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I've got one of these.
ONE MAN BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT 'NV16' UNIVERSAL on eBay (end time 12-Feb-11 12:33:25 GMT)
Seems to work fine.
I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 08:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
and where can i buy new bleed screws? what size ones do i need for sierra calipers?
bigg red - just phone them and they'll sort you out
[Edited on 27/1/2011 by mcerd1]
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r1_pete
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 08:24 AM |
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EasiBleed is a great piece of kit, providing you assemble things carefully, and in the correct order, and take your time.
As stated above it keeps the MC topped up automatically, with a slight airlock, so when you remove the kit the MC isn't brimmed, the reserve
bottle holds about 300ml of fluid IIRC, which is plenty to get fresh fluid to the back and air free.
You must remember to remove the pressure source before you do any topping up or removal, I got my Easibleed free from a neighbor who took the MC
adapter off 1st, sprayed brake fluid all over his engine bay and scuttle, followed by a temper tantrum and throwing it away as pile of useless crap.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 08:43 AM |
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Eezibleed is a very good solution to this, provided you use it properly. Some people seem to have endless problems with it, I'm really not sure
why as it's a very simple, easy to understand tool. It's powered from a tyre, you just need to make sure the tyre isn't inflated to
silly pressures (typical locost tyre pressure should be fine).
I find the hoses with a slit in don't work so well unless your calipers have o-rings on the bleed nipples as it sucks air back in through the
threads. Plenty of grease around the threads helps, but it's not perfect.
Gravity sometimes works for initial bleeding, but there generally isn't enough flow to carry out all the air unless there are absolutely no
points in your system where air can get trapped (it'd be the only one I've ever seen!).
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BenB
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 08:47 AM |
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Easybleed is indeed a good bit of kit. Some PTFE tape round the thread of the plastic bottle bit before screwing on the cap can help prevent air
leaks. But they're great.
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MK9R
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 08:55 AM |
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easy bleed can work ok, but i have had issue in it not being able to cope with rear brakes, it just couldn't puck it through. I bought a mytivac
vacume set up which can draw it through, i have even combined the two so i could pump litres through trying to get rid of an airlock!! I still think
the 2 man method is the best though ;-) A trick to stop the bleed nipple leaking air through the threads (a problem with the vacume method) is to
wrap the thread in plumbing ptfe tape
Cheers Austen
RGB car number 9
www.austengreenway.co.uk
www.automatedtechnologygroup.co.uk
www.trackace.co.uk
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RazMan
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 08:59 AM |
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I have found that the Eezibleed is good as a one-man solution but can leave trapped air in the m/c, especially on new installations. Make sure you at
least pump the m/c through a few times to make sure any air is pushed through.
The best solution IMO is to persuade SWMBO to do the pedal pumping while you nip round with a tube and jam jar - 5 minutes and you are done
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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britishtrident
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 09:18 AM |
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You cannot bleed by gravity.
One way valves can cause problems because air can be drawn in on the pedal return stroke --- Teeves (ATE) master cylinders are particularly prone to
this.
Same goes for any bleeder that bleeds by suction.
Positive prsesure bleeders like the Eezibleed are the best solution, however be aware even with an Eezibleed the pedal will have to be pumped a
couple of times at some point to get any trapped air out the master cylinder --- if it makes it easier when working single handed you can use
one way valves and an Eezibleed at the same time.
Tricks and Tips
When pumping the pedal the return stroke sholud be be very s-l-o-w to avoid drawing air in past the seals.
If you have trouble bleeding take top off the fluid resevoir then remove the pads from a caliper and pump the pistons partly out then push the pistons
back, repeat for each wheel.
The problems of bleeding Sierra rear calipers on Locost IRS have been well covered.
Tintop trick --- if using an Eezibleed on a car with standard rubber covered hoses you can control the fluid flow by using a pipe "nip"
clamp on the flex hose.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 12:18 PM |
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Don't put grease (except Girling Red rubber grease) anywhere near a brake system hydraulics even a tiny amount will either turn the seals hard
or rot them.
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 12:35 PM |
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thanks everyone
noo, not putting grease near the brakes, maybe dip the threads in brake fluid but thats it.
can i get nipples from motor factors locally? big red is an idea, but i'd have to wait a few days for them, and pay postage.
i'm going to try the one way valve method first i think. seems a simpler system than the eezibleed thing, though that does look really good.
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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prawnabie
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 01:04 PM |
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Most factors sell the "pearly wot not" blister packs - they do bleed nipples, just take an old one to match up.
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 01:18 PM |
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oh, and what brake fluid do i want? i guess DOT4 will be fine?
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IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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James
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 01:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pajsh
I've got one of these.
ONE MAN BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDING KIT 'NV16' UNIVERSAL on eBay (end time 12-Feb-11 12:33:25 GMT)
Seems to work fine.
I used one of these too- worked fine.
Fine that is once I'd realised about the not undoing the nipples too much! As said by others, it was sucking in air at the nipple and I pumped
an awful lot of brake fluid through and a lot of head scratching before I realised!
J
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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RazMan
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 02:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
oh, and what brake fluid do i want? i guess DOT4 will be fine?
Personally I would always use DOT5.1 - compatible with DOT4 but has better spec and doesn't damage paintwork as easily. DON'T use DOT5 as
it is a completely different type of fluid.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/1/11 at 03:41 PM |
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ah, i just went out and got dot 4, thought about 5.1, but if its compatible, i can always swap later i guess? as long as i flush it out? can't
see i'll need any better than 4 anyway
[Edited on 27/1/11 by blakep82]
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