David Jenkins
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 posted on 12/7/04 at 07:13 PM |
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buggerit!
Put the top coat on my bonnet bump this evening - lovely it was, drying nicely with no fluffy bits or insects on the surface...
...went back out just now, and the surface has 'bloomed' - the atmosphere must have been damper than I thought after earlier rain. 
Will this polish out with rubbing compound, or should I wait until a drier evening and put another coat over the top (after a quick rub-down, that
is).
cheers,
David
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andyps
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| posted on 12/7/04 at 08:42 PM |
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From personal experience (but I don't really know what I am doing - I just play around) I would say you have to wait until you can apply another
coat. That is what I have always found with the cars i have sprayed, either from a can or with the full spraying kit.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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macspeedy
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| posted on 12/7/04 at 08:48 PM |
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what material is the bump made from, i'd wait n see
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 12/7/04 at 09:01 PM |
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It's cellulose paint over a plastic-etch primer, on GRP.
It's very annoying, 'cos the surface is really good!
David
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 12/7/04 at 09:07 PM |
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Let it partially harden (full cure is 14 days) overnight, and polish it with Farecla G3 with soft mutton cloth, it should be fine.
Whatever you do, don't put another coat ontop, it will trap the moisture and will micro blister in a few weeks
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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andyps
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| posted on 12/7/04 at 10:09 PM |
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Thanks Mark - good to know for the future. I must have been lucky in the past as I haven't had blisters wher eI have oversprayed. I think it was
what the paint supplier told me to do when I first re-sprayed a car over 20 years ago!
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 13/7/04 at 07:09 AM |
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Thanks from me too!
I'm in no great hurry, so I'll leave the thing until at least the weekend before attacking it. It doesn't pong of thinners now, so
I'll probably bring it into the house for a spell of extra hardening...
David
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BMF
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| posted on 13/7/04 at 08:24 AM |
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Always wet and dry with minimum 1200 grade between every coat, if you don't you will never get that smooth solid look.
The more prep you put in the better the finish, and if you don't get those blemishes out, they will always show through.
Don't be scared of taking the shine off as G3 brings it straight back!
Cheers Ben
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 13/7/04 at 06:04 PM |
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I agree about keying the paint between coats, probably alternate coats, but dont use water, its asking for blistering. red scotch is probably the
best, with green scotch before the final flash
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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chrisg
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| posted on 13/7/04 at 08:56 PM |
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Spray it in the kitchen - nice an' warm there
Cheers
Chris
Just what would consitute "unreasonable behavior" anyway?
Note to all: I really don't know when to leave well alone. I tried to get clever with the mods, then when they gave me a lifeline to see the
error of my ways, I tried to incite more trouble via u2u. So now I'm banned, never to return again. They should have done it years ago!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 14/7/04 at 09:21 PM |
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Gave it a good seeing-to with some rubbing compound (not the stuff Mark suggested - couldn't get any 'til Saturday) and it's come up
pretty well.
I'm a happy bunny again!
David
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 14/7/04 at 09:52 PM |
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If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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mandy69
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| posted on 14/7/04 at 10:43 PM |
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ooo rubbing compound stop it!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/7/04 at 08:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mandy69
ooo rubbing compound stop it!
Now, just behave!!
David
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 16/7/04 at 09:21 PM |
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Don't polish celly for a month after spraying, cutting compound is OK but anything else will seal the surface and prevent a full cure
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 17/7/04 at 08:27 PM |
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Thanks again Mark! These tips are very useful.
I bought some of that Farecla G3 stuff today. It is amazing - brings up a wonderful shine with very little effort - and not too much yellow on the
cloth, either!
rgds,
David
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paulf
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| posted on 18/7/04 at 08:51 PM |
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Where can I buy this polishing compound from?.Would I get it from an autofactors or do I need to ask a bodyshop?
Paul.
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I bought some of that Farecla G3 stuff today. It is amazing - brings up a wonderful shine with very little effort - and not too much yellow on the
cloth, either!
rgds,
David
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 19/7/04 at 07:19 AM |
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I got mine from a car paint supplier in Ipswich (Bee Bee Supplies, I think it's called).
David
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NS Dev
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| posted on 19/7/04 at 05:54 PM |
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Yep, as Mark said, G3's the stuff!! The pro's aren't just skilled, they also use the right stuff!!
You might as well rub the car with water for all the good that T-Cut does these days. (I know it is different for a different result but...)I think
that they have reduced the cutting action so that they don't get sued by people who have wrecked their cars by hamfisted use!! (to the point
where now it doesn't cut the paint back and leaves a residue that is virtually impossible to get off!!!!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 19/7/04 at 05:55 PM |
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Oh yes, meant to add, you can buy G3 paste and liquid, plus Farecla Topglaze and the fine finishing liquid from Screwfix too!!
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