jeffw
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 posted on 22/4/11 at 03:55 PM |
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English Axle Drum ....arrrrggghhhhh
So...replacing drums and shoes on my english axled Phoenix. Got one drum off with some heat but the other side doesn't want to budge. It moves
on the stud areas but seems to be bonded to the half shaft by corrosion. I've used heat, big hammers, pry bars and nothing.
Anyone any suggestions ? Need to do this as the shoes are down to the metal. I thought about some form of puller but I don't know what to get.
Need the car for a sprint on Sunday so it is pretty urgent.
Cheers
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big_wasa
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 04:01 PM |
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The shoes will have put a grove in the drums. You will need to back the shoes of. there is a little rubber cap to get access.
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jeffw
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 04:16 PM |
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I'll check but it seems to be held around the half-shaft.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 04:16 PM |
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Start by disconnecting hand brake cable.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 04:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
I'll check but it seems to be held around the half-shaft.
yep a lot say that. Slacken the handbrake cable, then de-adjust the shoes and, .........voila the usually fall off.
edit bit :-
When refitting, mr angry grinder is your friend, remove the wear lip to a nice champhered edge. adjust out the shoes, until you can just get them on,
readjust hand brake for about 6 clicks and you should find you have brakes, much better brakes.
[Edited on 22/4/11 by jollygreengiant]
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 04:23 PM |
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On the backplate there is an oval hole about 1" long. Inside there you should see a toothed wheel and a ratchet lever - this is the handbrake
auto-adjust mechanism. The brake shoes should move in if you release the ratchet with a screwdriver blade (poke the blade under the ratchet lever).
The usual problem with a drum that hasn't been off for a while is that the shoes will have kept most of the drum clean (and worn it a little)
while leaving a bit untouched at the edge. This doesn't get cleaned, so goes rusty and leaves a ridge that makes removing the drum very
difficult. Brute force and ignorance usually triumphs in the end...
[Edited on 22/4/11 by David Jenkins]
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jeffw
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 07:33 PM |
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So...handbrake disconnect, screwdriver waved at oval hole and still the same issue. With a pry bar behind it I can make the whole drum bend towards
the centre. There is about 3-4mm movement of the drum up the studs but the centre looks like it is welded to the halfshaft and doesn't move at
all.
I've used two pry bars at the same time and heat (propane torch) and still no movement on the centre. At this rate I'll have no backing
plate left. I can actually get the pry bar under the drum lip and between the back plate.
The drums took a pounding as some idiot (me) drove a whole session at Oulton Park with the handbrake on....! The other side had a bald shoe and lots
of dust...and not a lot of paint on the outside of the drum.
God knows how I'm going to get this side off. I have new drums, shoes and all the fittings waiting to go on 
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 07:56 PM |
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Have you tried hitting the drum hard towards the centre of the axle ? A few hard clouts normally bounces the drum away from the halfshaft flange As a
last resort if you have new drums then very careful use of an angrygrinder would get the old one off
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jeffw
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 08:09 PM |
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The spinning wheel of death first thing tomorrow I think....don't have time to naff about with it anymore.
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stevegough
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| posted on 22/4/11 at 08:49 PM |
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This might sound like a daft question, and I don't know an english axle from a norwegian one, but it isn't one of the ones where you have
to remove the outer wheel bearing before you remove the drum, is it?
Ok, talking out my ..rrs maybe?
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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jeffw
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:28 AM |
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no bearing on the outside of the hub. It is held on by the wheel and the bolts/studs....however in my case it doesn't know that and wants to
stay on like it has been welded there.
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jeffw
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 11:35 AM |
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Went off to the local car parts place in the village. One large puller later and the new drum & shoes are on. All working 
Thanks for the advice.
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stevegough
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 08:15 PM |
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So what was holding it? rim of the drum and edges of brake shoes?
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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