cerbera
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posted on 16/11/11 at 08:06 AM |
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Muffet Diff
I've read a couple of (old) posts here and at the RGB forums where they say it's very unreliable, but I have spoken with the guy who now
holds the manufacturing rghts and he says that he has implemented an upgrade that makes them alot more reliable.
There's one on a car I might be looking at buying and this one has just had the upgrade completed. I won't be using it for racing but may
do a few track days.
Has anyone had any experiances with this diff.
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BobM
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posted on 16/11/11 at 09:37 AM |
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I had one in my Fury. It lasted 2 trackdays and 1 race weekend.
I know James Johnson who I presume you're talking about and know he has been working on a fix to the design flaws. I know at least one of them
has failed post-mod.
Which car are you looking at?
Not very Locost but very BEC
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cerbera
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posted on 16/11/11 at 10:11 AM |
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Yes, it was James who I spoke to.
It's fitted to a R1 powered Striker which is for sale on Pistonheads.
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derekandrewjones
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posted on 16/11/11 at 11:38 AM |
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That Strikers looks a nice car.
If you are looking at Road and Trackday usage then it provides a good solution to a reverse but you won't be using the other key feature which
is a changeable ratio. Is the complexity and weight worth the reverse for road use?
I had a Westfield with their centre mounted reverse mechanism and removed it due to unreliability and weight. Never missed it when driving on the
road to be honest.
There is quite a difference between the stresses on a car which is on a trackday compared to a race weekend so it is more likely to survive your
planned usage.
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fishywick
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posted on 16/11/11 at 01:28 PM |
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I know the car very well, pm me if you like.
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Tris
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posted on 16/11/11 at 01:39 PM |
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James has my Muffet at the mo - i believe that once he services one (for a nominal fee), he then provides some sort of warrantee for the diff (not
racing use mind).
After seeing the mod (which mine has, and to date as done a fair few races without missing a beat), i am 'hopefull'
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cerbera
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posted on 16/11/11 at 04:03 PM |
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Thanks for the replies guys.
If the diff was to go pop I believe it £2k+ for a new one.
Does anyone know what would be involved in changing to a freelander diff? Apart from the diff, obviously, and changing of anchorage points would it
mean new driveshatfs uprights and prop?
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BobM
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posted on 16/11/11 at 07:16 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by cerberaDoes anyone know what would be involved in changing to a freelander diff? Apart from the diff, obviously,
and changing of anchorage points would it mean new driveshatfs uprights and prop?
You'd need to at least modify your prop and drive shafts with a risk you might need to replace them. When mine went I replaced it with a Sierra
diff - fabricated and welded the brackets for the diff myself and my local prop/driveshaft guy was able to modify my existing prop and had my existing
driveshafts machined to fit the diff. I think the Freelander uses push in splines at the diff end (rather than bolted onto flanges) so you'd
probably need to get new driveshafts made.
Not very Locost but very BEC
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cerbera
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posted on 16/11/11 at 09:55 PM |
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Cheers for the reply, Bob
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TimC
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posted on 30/11/11 at 10:53 AM |
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Mac#1 may have suitable driveshafts available.
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