chris.russell
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
Sierra Diff stripdown
At last I have got myself a donar, all stripped and in the process of stripping each component ready for a good shotblast and rebuild.
Does anyone have a set of stripdown instructions/pictures of procedures on how to stripdown a diff.
Any help would be great
Chris
Mines a pint
|
|
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 02:54 PM |
|
|
For that kind of thing the older Haynes are a lot better. There may be something in there.
There's the online Sierra Haynes on that Russian site too which may be an old enough version to be of use.
You sure it needs a rebuild btw? Maybe it depends how many miles the car has done but in a Sierra they last 200K miles so if the car's done less
than that you should be ok IMHO.
All the best,
James
|
|
|
chris.russell
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 03:02 PM |
|
|
The diff had only done 67,000 miles but as i plan to shotblast it I thought, if it were easy enough, I would do a full strip/rebuild. But if its alot
of work then it will still be perfectly good in the car.
I was going to buy the manual but it seems silly only for one section. i have tried the online russian website but I cannot find anything to do with
diff stripping.
Mines a pint
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 03:33 PM |
|
|
I'd just seal the holes up, and blast it! 
With any luck it'll look as nice as mine!
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=silver_diff.jpg 
Not that anyone'll see it (unless you've just run them over) so just leave it as is and bolt it on!
I changed the oil in mine- that's all. Not driven the car yet so hope it works ok!
James
[Edited on 12/8/04 by James]
|
|
|
ned
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 03:36 PM |
|
|
I've heard that the dif needs setting up properly if the cwp comes out as it needs to be shimmed accurately so the teeth mesh correctly etc. I
took the back plat of mine and steam cleaned it inside and out. new oil and it'll be fine.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
|
|
|
mackie
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 03:48 PM |
|
|
I agree with the other chaps, since it's a low miler I wouldn't worry about it, it'll be fine. Chances are if you do a DIY rebuild
you won't set it up right and wreck a diff that would have lasted for another 100,000 miles easy.
|
|
|
alfasudsprint
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 07:13 PM |
|
|
online russian haynes wotsit??? a link anyone, please!
Tim
ps need some info on Lada stuff, they must have that one!
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 12/8/04 at 08:54 PM |
|
|
in the haynes manual, chap9sec5 relates to the final drive overhaul. It says its too hard for home mechanics, that only some seals are possible to do
and that the rest is for a ford dealer. take it to benfield ford, see what they say!
|
|
|
chris.russell
|
| posted on 13/8/04 at 08:49 AM |
|
|
found a much easier way, and cheaper - give it to a mate and let him do all the hard work! sorted.
thanks for your help boys
Mines a pint
|
|
|
locoboy
|
| posted on 13/8/04 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
until you get the bill by way of paying for all his beer for 5 nights on the lash in return for him undertaking a bitch of a job 
ATB
Locoboy
|
|
|
chris.russell
|
| posted on 13/8/04 at 01:44 PM |
|
|
well, as it turned out I decided to do the job myself, spent a few minutes (after I found out how) stripping everything down. Went ready smoothly and
fingers crossed it should be rebuild in the next week or so.
Mines a pint
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 13/8/04 at 03:48 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by chris.russell
well, as it turned out I decided to do the job myself, spent a few minutes (after I found out how) stripping everything down. Went ready smoothly and
fingers crossed it should be rebuild in the next week or so.
Out of interest, what parts have you changed on it?
James
|
|
|
locoboy
|
| posted on 14/8/04 at 08:57 AM |
|
|
out of interest what is engineers blue? have heard of it a few times.
yours stoopid col!
ATB
Locoboy
|
|
|
chris.russell
|
| posted on 14/8/04 at 11:05 AM |
|
|
I am only buying a bearing and seal rebuild kit. Everything else is in top condition.
Engineers blue - dam good stuff, ideal for smearing inside safety helmets as when your victim puts their hemlet on they get a nice blue line thats
very hard to wash off and gets everywhere. Normally its used when checking for high spots, i.e. on white metal bearing so you know where to scrap and
when you have two flat surfaces that need to have a high surface contact
Mines a pint
|
|
|
