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Author: Subject: Excessive negative camber - a solution for those using the entire sierra rear end.
givemethebighammer

posted on 22/8/04 at 10:13 PM Reply With Quote
Excessive negative camber - a solution for those using the entire sierra rear end.

Several designs of seven (and other kits) utilise the entire (or most of it) rear end of the ford sierra. These include tiger cat, robin hood, leugo velocity ? and many home brew designs. When installing the sierra rear end in a seven the ride height is much lower than in the original sierra and the result is excessive negative camber of the rear wheels. The camber can be corrected but putting washers under the top two rear hub carrier bolt but this tends to leave the bears open to the elements. A much better solution was designed by Jim Stott of http:\www.rhocar.org. This consisted of a wedge shaped steel plate that fitted between the rear hub carrier and the suspension arm.

The wedge is 5.7mm thick at the top and 3mm at the bottom giving a 2 degree wedge.

real scale diagram attached.

RS Jigtec originally made and sold these these. Not sure how easy they would be to make, I got one of the last pairs before RS went under. Rescued attachment camber wedges.jpg
Rescued attachment camber wedges.jpg

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givemethebighammer

posted on 22/8/04 at 10:13 PM Reply With Quote
original picture Rescued attachment post-5-1060635347.jpg
Rescued attachment post-5-1060635347.jpg

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MikeRJ

posted on 23/8/04 at 06:32 AM Reply With Quote
Ideally you would want to use two wedges per hub to keep the surface the the bolt head contacts flat, and therefore prevent bending the bolts as they are tightened.
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givemethebighammer

posted on 23/8/04 at 04:33 PM Reply With Quote
if you used two wedges per hub they would not correct the camber, just push your wheels out by 5.7mm each side !!

However, I can see your point. Not sure how much of a problem it is as loads of the robin hood gang have these fitted.

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JoelP

posted on 23/8/04 at 05:03 PM Reply With Quote
it would be 8.7mm at each side! but would it be possible to put one wedge on the outside of the hub carrier, so that the carrier is at an angle but the bolts still sit flat?






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givemethebighammer

posted on 23/8/04 at 05:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
it would be 8.7mm at each side! but would it be possible to put one wedge on the outside of the hub carrier, so that the carrier is at an angle but the bolts still sit flat?


opps crap maths again


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JoelP

posted on 23/8/04 at 05:44 PM Reply With Quote


(4000 posts here i come, a few months at this rate!)








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bob

posted on 23/8/04 at 07:18 PM Reply With Quote
Just a wild stab in the dark but when you fit the hub with these wedges i presume you can still torque the bolts up to the hub carrier,or is just a robin hood wing and a prayer thing






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givemethebighammer

posted on 23/8/04 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bob
Just a wild stab in the dark but when you fit the hub with these wedges i presume you can still torque the bolts up to the hub carrier,or is just a robin hood wing and a prayer thing


Torque thing - don't see why not

RH thing - in general probably

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MikeRJ

posted on 23/8/04 at 09:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
it would be 8.7mm at each side! but would it be possible to put one wedge on the outside of the hub carrier, so that the carrier is at an angle but the bolts still sit flat?


That exactly what I meant. It's only a few degrees, but torquing the bolts up with the head sitting on an angle is certainly not going to improve the strength of the assembly.

We should be setting the RHers a good example

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Jon Bradbury

posted on 23/8/04 at 09:41 PM Reply With Quote
Mike,

...so I presume you have another, better idea...?

(bearing in ming I'm building a 'Hood and Jim Stott is a sort of Demi-God in RH circles).

Go on, take your time...


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Hugh Jarce

posted on 26/8/04 at 06:30 AM Reply With Quote
There are special adjustable 2 part washers for just this purpose. not to be confused with "hillside washers" which are just for bolting against the tapered faces of I beams.





The pay isn't very good , but the work's hard.

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James

posted on 26/8/04 at 08:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jon Bradbury
Mike,

...so I presume you have another, better idea...?

(bearing in ming I'm building a 'Hood and Jim Stott is a sort of Demi-God in RH circles).

Go on, take your time...




Yeah, ditching that whole, horrible, ugly, monstrously heavy system and fitting De Dion or IRS instead!

James

[Edited on 26/8/04 by James]

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MikeRJ

posted on 26/8/04 at 12:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jon Bradbury
Mike,

...so I presume you have another, better idea...?

(bearing in ming I'm building a 'Hood and Jim Stott is a sort of Demi-God in RH circles).

Go on, take your time...




As I already said, using two tapered shims per axle (one either side of flange) to keep the clamping surfaces parallel. Alternatively get the flange spot faced at the appropriate angle with a milling machine.

Jim Stott may be a demi-god but a bolt head clamping onto a surface that isn't parallel is simply poor engineering parctice.

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