YQUSTA
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 02:02 PM |
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Master Cylinder replacement
Good afternoon all,
I am looking to replace my MC as the brakes are sticking on at times and I have looked at the the front calipers and cleaned them and done the same to
the rear drums.
I have what I believe is a sierra MC and on it is the following.
K0236
311809
22
does anyone know a direct replacement for this part as I cannot find one of this type.
Thanks in advance
 
Sierra MC
 
Sierra MC K0236
 
Sierra MC 22
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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pekwah1
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 02:15 PM |
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Looks like a mk6 escort master cylinder to me.
Google the "k0236 cylinder" it would suggest the same.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 02:58 PM |
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If the master cylinder is causing binding brakes it will be because the piston is not coming fully back either because the push rod is not allowing
the piston fully back (very common problem on home build cars) or there is a build up of crud at the end of push rod end of the cylinder bore both
easy to fix neither really need a new master cylinder to fix.
If the the end piston in the master cylinder is failing to come fully back by even 1mm it can cause the brakes to bind completely solid when they get
warm.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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YQUSTA
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 03:35 PM |
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There are quite a few mc's with K0236 and the best likeness I could find was a Rhocar post which also has the 311809 as well, the Escort ones
don't look quite the same as mine, but I could be wrong as I believe there are many different ones.
I am not 100% sure where the bind is happening but thought if I am going to have to start removing bits and bobs I would change out the MC for one
that I can actually identify and get spare parts for.
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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kj
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 03:55 PM |
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Have you got floor mounted pedals? check that the bushes arnt expanding with the heat causing the pedal not to return fully.
Think about it, think about it again and then do it.
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40inches
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 04:29 PM |
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I have a Sierra one exactly the same, you can have it for postage costs. I took it off when I replaced it with a Fiesta MC.
No fluid reservoir though.
 
Description
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YQUSTA
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 08:05 PM |
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KJ - I do have floor pedals but they are moving freely, in fact there is around an inch of completely free movement before any resistance from the
MC
40inches - I may take you up on that very kind offer if I dont get an alternative to the one I have. I would prefer to get something that is now
readily available off the shelf with spares being easy to get in the future if I were to require them.
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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britishtrident
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 09:05 PM |
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Unless you are using a servo it might be an idea to to make the jump to the early Fiesta or FIAT master cylinder, a proven mod that gives much
better brake response.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 09:29 PM |
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You don't say whether the brakes have just started playing up, or if they have always been like it. If you have been using them and all was
fine, then as you say there is free play at the pedal I would suggest it's probably sticking brakes at the wheel. It's suprising how
little it takes to stick a piston when the brakes get warm.
Might be worth trying to find out which end or wheel is locking, and does it happen all the time or only after a run?
I had the same issue and after about 1/2 mile they would lock at the front almost solid! Turns out it was the pushrod slightly too long after I
replaced the Sierra MC for a Fiat one. When I got a lock-up, if I cracked one of the front bleed nipples then the brakes would be fine, until I ran
them up again. One of the guys on here suggested vapour lock as the fluid heated up.
Sorry for the essay, but thought it might give you a bit more to go on.
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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YQUSTA
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| posted on 22/8/13 at 10:01 PM |
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Britishtrident, do you know what would be involved with swapping to one of the MC's you mention? would it be a straight swap?
Daddylonglegs, it has been doing it for a little while now, I noticed it most when I went to the Silverstone classic, the further into the journey I
went the less I had to use the pedal and the car would stop itself.
I then took the front calipers off and cleaned them up and copper greased the areas where the pad was in contact with the caliper body, i also pushed
the piston back into the caliper body, there was a little corrosion around the very end of the piston where it would come in contact with the pad.
I also reset the rear drums adjuster.
Before I did this I tried to spin each wheel when in the air and the all had a little binding the fronts worse than the rear's.
The next time I went for a drive they were much better but I wasn't driving as spirited as I had the wife with me.
It was only the second time after my minor overhaul that the sticking was very apparent again to the point where again I didn't really need to
brake with the pedal.
I would happily replace the MC as I would prefer to do the whole job once rather than having to do it twice, knowing my luck it would fail not long
after if it isnt faulty now.
Thanks for all the advice
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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karlak
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| posted on 23/8/13 at 07:35 AM |
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Think it is the same as I have removed from my car (now gone to a pedal box).
 
Description
MK Indy - 2litre Duratec - Omex 600 - Jenvey throttle bodies - ETB DigiDash2
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