rodgling
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| posted on 6/5/15 at 08:33 PM |
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bias bar adjustment
Just replaced a master cylinder with a different type and it turns out that the new one has a slightly longer push-rod, hence the bias bar is now
quite a way off parallel (to the bulkhead) under normal braking load. Otherwise everything seems fine.
How critical is this, do I need to trim the push-rod down or is this OK?
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The Black Flash
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| posted on 6/5/15 at 09:20 PM |
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You have to make sure it's not binding at the edges, and if it's too far out of parallel, you won't get proper effort in both
circuits - there are a few guides on the web, here's one:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/images/brakeclutchpartsl/Merlin%20Motorsport%20OBP.pdf
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The Black Flash
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| posted on 6/5/15 at 09:20 PM |
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You have to make sure it's not binding at the edges, and if it's too far out of parallel, you won't get proper effort in both
circuits - there are a few guides on the web, here's one:
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/images/brakeclutchpartsl/Merlin%20Motorsport%20OBP.pdf
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joneh
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| posted on 6/5/15 at 09:25 PM |
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id assume your brakes are no longer balanced. Follow this guide or get them set up before heavy braking.
https://obpltd.wordpress.com/2010/07/30/how-to-set-up-a-race-pedal-box-bias-bar-tech-session/
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rodgling
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| posted on 6/5/15 at 09:50 PM |
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It's not binding at any point and I'm aware I will need to adjust the bias before using them.
Not sure what you mean by "not getting proper effect in both circuits"?
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rodgling
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| posted on 7/5/15 at 08:03 PM |
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Decided I wasn't happy with it so took the master cylinder out and trimmed 1cm off the push rod. Nice and straight now. I guess if nothing else
I have saved myself 4.3 grams...
[Edited on 7/5/15 by rodgling]
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