locost7-online.com
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| posted on 17/7/15 at 08:30 PM |
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Wishbone bolts
What bolts are recommended for the Haynes roadster type wishbones? 50 mm bracket overall width, I've got some m12 with a 55mm shoulder, with
washers I think these should be ok, I don't want any thread inside the bracket
Locost Xflow 150bhp injected! Sold :-(
Facebook blog https://www.facebook.com/Johns-Tiger-Avon-Build-814223212056368/
PLEASE NOTE THIS MEMBER IS NOT A TRADER.
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bi22le
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| posted on 17/7/15 at 08:42 PM |
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Feel depending on bush size (ID) an imperial bolt will be better.
I changed my rear from m12 to 1/2" and there was an obvious difference in handling.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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hizzi
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| posted on 17/7/15 at 09:25 PM |
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interesting i might get some unf bolts and try it
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locost7-online.com
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| posted on 17/7/15 at 09:27 PM |
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The brackets, bush tube are defiantly too small for 1/2" bolts
Locost Xflow 150bhp injected! Sold :-(
Facebook blog https://www.facebook.com/Johns-Tiger-Avon-Build-814223212056368/
PLEASE NOTE THIS MEMBER IS NOT A TRADER.
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bi22le
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| posted on 17/7/15 at 09:34 PM |
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I had to drill out the brackets on the chassis to get the 1/2" in.
That was easier than to change the bushes. The fronts are still not done. I neex the engine out to be able get the drill in
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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mark chandler
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 12:43 AM |
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Mine is based upon the Haynes book, although the brackets should all be the same, used 1/2" UNF as m12's fitted the chassis brackets but
rattled around in the rubber bushes so drilled the brackets out.
I have now discarded the rubber bits and fitted 1/2" UNF Rose joints, plentiful and cheap which really tightened things up without affecting
ride quality.
To get the drill into the brackets buried further back within the car I welded a 12" of rod to the drill bit so went through the front brackets
and kept going to do the rear 
[Edited on 18/7/15 by mark chandler]
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Talon Motorsport
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 07:31 AM |
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The suspension brackets supplied by me the holes are cut to 12.1mm for M12 bolts. If you have a hunt around on ebay there are few people doing lathe
work that will make 304 grade stainless crush tubes for £2 each.
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joneh
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 07:56 AM |
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All the bushes on my Fury were 1/2 inch and the bracket holes were M12. I bought a reamer to make the chassis holes bigger and used unf bolts.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 09:20 AM |
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Hopefully to answer the original question, this is a 75mm M12 bolt with locknut and washers;
There's a good amount of thread protruding, but you can see the thread does end up inside the bracket.
[Edited on 18/7/15 by Slimy38]
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bi22le
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 09:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Mine is based upon the Haynes book, although the brackets should all be the same, used 1/2" UNF as m12's fitted the chassis brackets but
rattled around in the rubber bushes so drilled the brackets out.
I have now discarded the rubber bits and fitted 1/2" UNF Rose joints, plentiful and cheap which really tightened things up without affecting
ride quality.
To get the drill into the brackets buried further back within the car I welded a 12" of rod to the drill bit so went through the front brackets
and kept going to do the rear
[Edited on 18/7/15 by mark chandler]
I don't have a welder. If i had an uber long drill bit i could probably do the fronts straight from the front, just moving the rad out of the
way. That would save about 3 hours work!
Fancy sending your drill bit my way?!?! For a price of course
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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coozer
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 02:06 PM |
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I'm going to be using AN bolts with the brackets reamed to the proper size.
That means the there's no slop between the brackets or the rose joints.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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locost7-online.com
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| posted on 18/7/15 at 07:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Hopefully to answer the original question, this is a 75mm M12 bolt with locknut and washers;
There's a good amount of thread protruding, but you can see the thread does end up inside the bracket.
[Edited on 18/7/15 by Slimy38]
This is kinda what I want to end up with, the shoulder on my bolts are 55mm, so the shoulder will be full width of the assembly, the bracket is only
50mm so want to use 2 washers, from previous experience the threaded bit wears very quickly in the bracket
Locost Xflow 150bhp injected! Sold :-(
Facebook blog https://www.facebook.com/Johns-Tiger-Avon-Build-814223212056368/
PLEASE NOTE THIS MEMBER IS NOT A TRADER.
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 19/7/15 at 03:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Hopefully to answer the original question, this is a 75mm M12 bolt with locknut and washers;
There's a good amount of thread protruding, but you can see the thread does end up inside the bracket.
[Edited on 18/7/15 by Slimy38]
I think you should use longer bolts. Ones that have longer shank and cut to length so you have a few threads left
Thats what I will be doing.
I have the bolts already, just hhave to cut to length.
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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