flanders
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 10:16 AM |
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Advice on my rear geometry
Hi guys....looking for some advice regarding my Geo, specifically the rear toe.
as you can see from my picture i have a fair amount of rear toe in, specifically on the right side, is this within acceptable limits or should i
perhaps shim the upright (non adjustable)
if so does anyone know what thickness shims would give, for example 1mm of adjustment, or is there an easy way to measure the toe without the fancy
equipment?
 
Description
15" wheels, MK indy
much appreciated
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loggyboy
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 10:22 AM |
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Depends on where you apply the 1mm of adjustment. adding 1mm 5cm from the pivot point will make twice as much angular differences as 1mm 10cm from the
pivot point.
Using distance to measure angles is a very hit or miss method, but you will be stuck with that, unless you can do adjustments on the fly with it on
the equipment, or replicate the geometry CAD (or even on paper) and carefully work out where/what shims/or wishbone adjustments can be made and
where.
[Edited on 28-2-17 by loggyboy]
Mistral Motorsport
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flanders
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 10:27 AM |
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Yeah i get you....
id probably get some kind of sheet metal plate type shim made up if it worth doing, my biggest concern is ending up with toe-out.
Do you think the toe in on the right side is a little excessive?
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loggyboy
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 10:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by flanders
Do you think the toe in on the right side is a little excessive?
Sorry I have no idea, but i'm sure someone will reply with an answer!
Mistral Motorsport
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Banana
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 10:45 AM |
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If those measurements were done at Kwik fit, it may be worth double checking at home with string.
I've heard of numerous occasions where these types of garages have been inaccurate.
I will be doing mine soon, so will be interested to see the best way to approach the shims.
[Edited on 28/2/17 by Banana]
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flanders
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 10:50 AM |
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Spot on.... that's exactly where it was done, they didn't fill me with confidence that's for sure but they're the only place i
know of with a Hunter machine near me.
how do you check it with string?
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hkp57
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 01:49 PM |
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If you want it checked and corrected get over to HQ Garage in Dalgety bay
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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mikeb
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 02:02 PM |
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A 1mm shim at the hub should give you about 0.16 deg toe change.
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Toprivetguns
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 02:17 PM |
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Anywhere down south that people would recommend for Geometry setups?
Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !
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flanders
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 02:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by hkp57
If you want it checked and corrected get over to HQ Garage in Dalgety bay
They're just down the road from me...I thought they'd shut up shop or was that just the dyno?
Any idea what equipment the use?
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hkp57
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 04:10 PM |
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It's the other way about, they stopped doing the dyno to concentrate on other work
Failing that take it down to Sitech Racing at Rosythe
http://www.sitechracing.co.uk/
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
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loggyboy
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 05:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Toprivetguns
Anywhere down south that people would recommend for Geometry setups?
Never used them personally but these guys are supposed to know their stuff.
http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/
Mistral Motorsport
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Toprivetguns
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 06:54 PM |
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Will give them a call - most places have never heard of a MK Indy.
Anyone has experience with Northampton motorsport?
Only drive as fast as your angel can fly... !
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mark chandler
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| posted on 28/2/17 at 08:21 PM |
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Fishing line and axle stands are your friends, forget all that expensive stuff.
Work out the center line of the car, park on flat ground, drop the fishing line over the top of the car and chalk some lines front and back, 6 feet
behind the car and a couple of feet in front, further away the more accurate within reason.
Measure the width of the wheels on the car, add an inch then devide use to draw a virtual box around the car on the ground with chalk, now tie the
fishing line at wheel centre height to the axle stands and place on the front and rear corners of your box.
Now just measure from the line to the wheel rim to see how parallel they are, you want a smidge toe in so when braking hard the wheels get pulled
straight, more compliant the bushes more toe in required.
Camber is easy with an iPad, just get a level app, park the car on perfectly flat ground, someone drives weight in the driving seat if you mostly go
solo then measure on the wheel rim.
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