jamriggsy
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| posted on 23/8/17 at 09:51 PM |
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Van Diemen Duratec build starting now
Hello.....
So I did start another thread on options around using the Mondeo 2.0 he engine and original ecu, and after some consideration I have decided that I
probably (NOT definitely) wont go down the oem ecu mostly due to complexity of fit into my application and due to the time constrants at hand.
My GOALS
low budget (under 1K) duratec build and mount on chassis with ideally 200hp but realistically at this stage 175hp which will be plenty,
I have had plenty of success in my CRX for a modest budget beating cars 4x or even 8x the value and would like to repeat the "locost"
success in the single seater if at all possible.
My Strategy
use bike TB with (and maybe using) dan ST type setup, aftermarket ecu solution
Where i am now is i have the block on the engine stand, head still on and I'm attempting to get the stubborn pulley bolt off.
My first help required items are
1. Compression
I have done a quick compression test dry before draining oil ect, i got very strange results, and also got confused with cylinder order, I always
thought cylinder 1 was nearest the cam belt or timing chain but on my duratec which i removed from a bog standard Mondeo the lead marked 1 goes to
what i thought was cylinder 4 and basically all in reverse order?. so can some quickly clarify if I'm being stupid?. which is cylinder 1.
the results (as i saw them in order),
1 250
2 245
3 235
4 150
Oh dear is what i thought, looks like I'm going to have to do more than i anticipated, cylinder 4 is very low, or is it 1-3 is very high, as i
believe standard compression is around 180psi?.
My thoughts are to strip the head, clean, reseat the valves, remove the pistons, measure / inspect bores and replace rings and also the con rod shells
and bolts but that's all. no major upgrade, standard bottom end should be good for 200 easy right?
Why the high compression, surely not carbon deposit?.
Any thing i should definitely do?
Any i shoudnt ?.
Ill start posting pics once i find another "photo bucket" type site that actually works.
Many thanks in advance for what I'm sure is going to be a long and drawn out winter.
Jamie
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 24/8/17 at 11:20 AM |
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Use ARP bolts on your big end bearings and also flywheel bolts.
Personally I would also say that bike ITB's are a waist of time and money because they are unreliable. I used GSXR 750 bodies but they were
pretty much poor at best, gave erratic results.
Ended up swapping to Jenvey.
[Edited on 24/8/17 by big-vee-twin]
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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jamriggsy
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| posted on 24/8/17 at 11:26 AM |
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Thanks. What's your compression like then. Is that all with std internals?.
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coozer
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| posted on 24/8/17 at 12:16 PM |
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Try a leak down test on it. Just done mine and it showed me exactly where the problems are.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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neilp1
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| posted on 24/8/17 at 03:16 PM |
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I've just completed an engine rebuild with standard internals. New main bearing, new big end bearings, new standard rod bolts, new rings, ST150
head (bought off a guy on here), arp flywheel bolts, some mild cams no idea whay make bought off a guy on tiger owners club (second hand but they were
in good nick so they went in), GSXR1000 TB with Dan st manifold and omex 600.
Just had it on the rollers and it made 197bhp but I thought it would have made a few more, but I happy enough as it was my first engine rebuild.
Don't know compression as I didn't test before or after!
Shop around for your parts. I used burton, caterham, ford and ebay.
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 24/8/17 at 08:29 PM |
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Yes, my engine is totally standard with Jenveys and makes 193hp.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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Furyous
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| posted on 24/8/17 at 10:57 PM |
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Regarding spark leads - The coil fires two cylinders at a time. The cylinder with fresh air is more conductive so you would get a good spark on that
one while the one with exhaust gas will have high resistance and won't spark. 1 + 4 are paired, and 2 + 3 are paired. As long as the leads are
swapped within those pairs it won't make any difference.
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Hornet
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| posted on 26/8/17 at 02:40 PM |
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Hi.
no 1 is 100% at cam chain end. I would say your readings are higher than normal. With regards cyclinder 4 agree a leak down test is required to tell
you if it's rings or valves. Again agree arp bolts on flywheel and rods. One point I'd make is depending on how you drive you may need oil
baffle or raceline sump to prevent starving the big ends. My oil pressure fluctuates excessively with sharp cornering or braking.
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jamriggsy
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| posted on 30/8/17 at 07:17 PM |
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THanks guys, great info so far.
I managed to pick up a raceline sump 2nd hand so im all good on dry sump front.
what do you guys use now to upload pics?. photobucket was great until they ballsed it up
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