Avoneer
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| posted on 15/1/05 at 12:41 AM |
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Sierra Uprights
The bolt that holds the strut in place on the top of both of my uprights has sheared off and all attempts to remove it have failed.
Is it ok to just drill a 10mm hole straight through and use a bolt and nyloc rather than just using a bolt that screws into the other threaded
half?
Thanks,
Pat...
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TPG
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| posted on 15/1/05 at 01:25 AM |
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Yes I would.Have done in thepast.Just make sure you use a 12.9 Bolt.The 8.8's tend to bend and streeeeeech in this application.
..Which was nice..
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Chris_R
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| posted on 15/1/05 at 01:42 AM |
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Dunno if it'd work in this case, but I recenty had to remove a sheared stud from the manifold of my Cavalier. I welded some box section to it
and used it as a lever. It came right out.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
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Avoneer
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| posted on 15/1/05 at 01:54 AM |
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Thanks Chris, but they are more than "under" flush with an 8mm hole through the middle of them and a stud extractor broken off in one of
them!
Will go for the 10mm hole and use a socet cap - seen people do it like this anyway to incorporate the cycle wing bracket.
Cheers,
Pat...
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andyps
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| posted on 15/1/05 at 12:37 PM |
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One of mine sheared off and I have drilled through it, will try to get as large as possible a hole through and see if I can then chisel out the
remainder of the original bolt - otherwise it will be a nut and bolt.
Main problem was drilling straight so the bolt will lie flush when tightened.
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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DarrenW
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 11:18 AM |
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Both of mine sheared off sub flush. Nut and bolt is OK. The hardest part is drilling the old bolts out. Iam guessing they are high tensile. I used a
cordless drill (pro type (DeWalt)) and found the process to be a right pain. Started with pilot hole then worked up. They did not drill out straight
and dont look pretty. I cant see how it would be possible to remove them at home and end up with the original threaded hole intact (toolroom might be
able to if you pay them - milling machine). My advise - take your time and if possible line the hubs up under pillar drill (not easy in practice).
IHTH,
Darren.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 12:18 PM |
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You could get it helicoiled -- I used to have a set of 5/16" helicoil taps for repairing Elan cylinder heads -- the result is as strong or
stronger than original.
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tks
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 12:49 PM |
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just cut!
in the past i had the same problem. in a exhaust apllication.
if i was you, i would try to drill trhoug it and do the last part with a steel saw
like to cut figures.
you then only lose 1mm of the thread.
and with a screw driver you then should be able to pull the piece of chit out..
TKS
p.d. what allso helps is let it weak allot of time in WD40 or something like that...
then they alsways will come faster off and because ever little bit helps...
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Avoneer
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 05:20 PM |
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Has anyone ever tried drilling through a carbon steel stud extractor? 
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 05:32 PM |
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My suggestion would be to cut down the slot then use a chissel to expand and remove hub knuckle from leg. THEN you drill out the threaded piece and
use a GOOD STRONG drift to drift out the rest (the bit with the stud extractor). This way you don't have to (try and) drill the broken stud
extractor.
Enjoy. 5 days to go.
[Edited on 17/1/05 by jollygreengiant]
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 07:20 PM |
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Easyout Stud extractors are the second thing you teach an apprentice mechanic not to use.
(The first thing not to use was the new O rings that used to come old fashioned paper cartridge oil filters -- disturb one of those on say a
Morris Oxford and you would spend the rest of the morning fixing the resultant oil leak )
[Edited on 17/1/05 by britishtrident]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 17/1/05 at 08:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Easyout Stud extractors are the second thing you teach an apprentice mechanic not to use.
They can be usefull, but you really need a top notch expensive set, and you've got to know when to give up and take the part for spark errosion
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sdv builder
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| posted on 1/2/05 at 11:27 AM |
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This seems a common thing to do. I've just done it as well. Head sheared off bolt, then easy out shears in bolt. I then decided to drill the
other side and try another easy out, unfortunately the drill bit shattered in the bolt. Decided to get another RH Sierra upright. Can anyone help?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 1/2/05 at 12:14 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Easyout Stud extractors are the second thing you teach an apprentice mechanic not to use.
They can be usefull, but you really need a top notch expensive set, and you've got to know when to give up and take the part for spark errosion
Trouble not the quality of the easy out but the fact they actually get a grip expand the bolt like a rawlplug.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/2/05 at 12:22 PM |
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I'd recommend spark-erosion. It's something that any decent machine shop can do. There's not a whole lot of manpower involved, just
initial set-up, then they will just leave the machine to it - it won't interfere with their day-to-day work so they should be quite friendly.
I had a tap removed from a model steam loco cylinder that I'd spent many hours machining - last hole to be tapped, as well!
If the part has any real value then it's worth getting a quote, if nothing else.
David
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