jps
|
posted on 13/9/21 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
Is rivet AND sealant overkill for this?
As I didn't weld them in the right place, I am now riveting the brackets in place which will support my flexi/hard brake line join.
They'll be similar sorts of things to the bracket shown to the left of this pic (not my car - pinched from 40 Inches photo archive...) - in my
case they are 2mm steel n varied 'L' shapes - cut down from box section and seriously stiff.
Description
I had planned to put a blob of Sikaflex behind them and then rivet with 2x 3.2mm multi grip rivets.
I've realised i'll have to wait for ages to do this, as i won't open a tube of Sika just for this job. And so I can't sort out
my solid brake lines for ages if I wait until I am ready to bond my bodywork on (the only other thing I will use Sika for).
Is the sealant overkill for this job? Is there something else I should blob in there instead? Will 2 x rivets provide ample attachment?
[Edited on 13/9/21 by jps]
[Edited on 13/9/21 by jps]
|
|
|
Paul M
|
posted on 13/9/21 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
I would think that 2 rivets would give ample grip to hold a bracket - rivets and sikaflex would be overkill.
looking at the location & thickness of steel , two cap head bolts/ setscrews with nyloc nuts underneath would give a very secure mount.
SSC Stylus 2.0. Blacktop, Omex
ECU & Bodies
|
|
loggyboy
|
posted on 14/9/21 at 12:39 AM |
|
|
Agreed, no load, limited vibrations and no intended movement of pipes. Rivets are fine.
Mistral Motorsport
|
|
jps
|
posted on 14/9/21 at 06:35 AM |
|
|
Thanks guys - in my application (not pictured) the bracket is mounted off box section, hence the rivets. I was thinking that the flexi does put some
load onto the bracket - as the wheel moves up/down (back wheel) and in/out (front wheel) but I guess most of the force is taken up in the bending of
the flexi in any event...
Edit to add - to satisfy my curiosity, i've just Googled rivet strength and found this, which indicates aluminimum rivet strengths - a lot
higher than I had expected!
http://www.fasnetdirect.com/refguide/RivetsCskblind.pdf
[Edited on 14/9/21 by jps]
|
|
craig1410
|
posted on 14/9/21 at 12:31 PM |
|
|
How about a couple of M5 rivnuts and cap head screws? You could even go smaller to an M4 or perhaps an M3.
[Edited on 14/9/2021 by craig1410]
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
posted on 14/9/21 at 12:33 PM |
|
|
If that bracket could be pulled off just with the flexi moving then you have other issues. Most production cars use a thin plate spot welded to the
body with a lot less strength than your bracket.
|
|
jps
|
posted on 14/9/21 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Mr Whippy
If that bracket could be pulled off just with the flexi moving then you have other issues. Most production cars use a thin plate spot welded to the
body with a lot less strength than your bracket.
Good point - i probably should have looked at my tintop to see how that's done, I am sure you are right and my setup is already
"tank-spec" in comparison...
quote: craig1410
How about a couple of M5 rivnuts and cap head screws? You could even go smaller to an M4 or perhaps an M3.
Having just popped in a few M6 rivnuts (for the first time) - i'm building up anxiety about snapped mandrels/spinning nuts as it is - so am
thinking rivets are simpler and leave less room for possible issues!
[Edited on 14/9/21 by jps]
|
|