mik-hey
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| posted on 12/10/21 at 09:55 PM |
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Questions about the rear uprights i bought
Hello everyone
I just bought an unfinished Haynes Roadster project and i have a question about the rear uprights supplied with the chassis.
As you can see, the uprights didn't have any holes to bold the hub.
It look pretty strange for me so do you know if it's used to a special assembly ?
Unfortunately the builder's widow don't know much about the chassis and the car her husband was building.
Many thanks for your help.
[Edited on 12/10/21 by mik-hey]
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snapper
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| posted on 13/10/21 at 06:17 AM |
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But the Chris Gibbs book published by Haynes called the Haynes roadster
It will have all the info you need.
As for the hubs it would be usual to drill and tap the holes before welding the hub carrier but it’s doable as it is with careful setting out.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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jps
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| posted on 13/10/21 at 08:47 AM |
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It's worth reading up on here/the Haynes Roadster Forum (http://forums.haynes.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=1).
If you're using Ford Sierra running gear, the Haynes book tells you to orient the holes either horizontally or vertically (they are spaced in a
rectangle pattern) depending whether you have discs or drums at the back. However early builders established that if you orient the holes diagonally
you can use either setup with the same set of mounting holes.
I am not sure if the above applies if you're using MX-5 running gear.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/10/21 at 12:42 PM |
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They do look well made 
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nick205
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| posted on 13/10/21 at 12:46 PM |
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I'd say with the right tools and skills you could add the necessary holes.
I'd also have thought holding the finished upright in the correct orientation might be difficult. Holding the metal plate (prior to welding)
would be far easier.
Have you looked to see how much a set of ready made uprights are with the holes already in them?
Might be quicker and more accurate to go that route than try to drill holes in what you've got.
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indykid
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| posted on 13/10/21 at 06:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
They do look well made
The welding looks good but I'd look to drill and file some drain holes in the front plate to relieve that water trap on top of the lower crush
tube.
I can think of a few ways to drill them very accurately in the field but for the required positional accuracy of the holes, printing out the holes 1:1
and some careful drilling should suffice. If you're worried about managing the squareness, drill one accurate hole in a piece of wood or metal
(in a pillar drill if possible, a mill even better) and use that as a drill guide to drill the uprights.
They wouldn't be too much trouble to fixture on a milling machine. If you were local, I'd offer to help but it looks like you're
quite a way away....
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nick205
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| posted on 14/10/21 at 07:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by indykid
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
They do look well made
The welding looks good but I'd look to drill and file some drain holes in the front plate to relieve that water trap on top of the lower crush
tube.
I can think of a few ways to drill them very accurately in the field but for the required positional accuracy of the holes, printing out the holes 1:1
and some careful drilling should suffice. If you're worried about managing the squareness, drill one accurate hole in a piece of wood or metal
(in a pillar drill if possible, a mill even better) and use that as a drill guide to drill the uprights.
They wouldn't be too much trouble to fixture on a milling machine. If you were local, I'd offer to help but it looks like you're
quite a way away....
indykid
Good comments!
Water trap drain holes would be a benefit.
Using a milling machine with suitable fixtures to support the upright whilst drilling the hub fixing holes would get the best perpendicular'ness
and accuracy. A local engineering company to the OP may be able to provide that service - for a cost.
I'd go back to my suggestion of looking at ready made uprights with the holes in place and weigh up the cost though. If the OP's
exisiting uprights are clamped and drilled/tapped the uprights will then need re-painting, which adds more time and cost to the process.
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mik-hey
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| posted on 14/10/21 at 01:25 PM |
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Hello.
Thank you very much for your replies and advices.
I will try to drill and tap accurately with the help of some kind of jig. But first, i will try to find a ready made pair around the internet.
Thanks again but be prepared to aswer my next question ...
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nick205
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| posted on 18/10/21 at 12:47 PM |
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Keep the questions coming - they're what keeps the forum alive and useful to members
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jps
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| posted on 18/10/21 at 01:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mik-hey
Hello.
Thank you very much for your replies and advices.
I will try to drill and tap accurately with the help of some kind of jig. But first, i will try to find a ready made pair around the internet.
Thanks again but be prepared to aswer my next question ...
Jigs do exist - indeed i have some (and until recently had no idea what they were - only found out by posting on here - see
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=218782). But I don't suppose it'll be viable to send them to you in France.
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40inches
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| posted on 18/10/21 at 04:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mik-hey
Hello.
Thank you very much for your replies and advices.
I will try to drill and tap accurately with the help of some kind of jig. But first, i will try to find a ready made pair around the internet.
Thanks again but be prepared to aswer my next question ...
Use the bearing carriers as a jig, they are going to be bolted there in the end
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