carnut
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| posted on 2/4/05 at 02:13 PM |
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Sierra Diff Driveshaft Bolts
The above bolts are a right bar-stuard to get out. Ive 2 of T40 torx screws have been rounded off/corroded away. I cant get in at them to chessel
them around or get an impart driver in. I dont want to heat them as the rubber gator is right next to them. Any ideas?
Ive tryed tightening then, WD40, clouting them with hammer. I may have to weld something to them but dont want to as that means getting hold of the
welder.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 2/4/05 at 02:20 PM |
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Cut the heads off with an angle grinder, when you get the driveshafts off the studs should just undo with mole grips easy enough.
David 
[Edited on 2/4/05 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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carnut
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| posted on 2/4/05 at 02:36 PM |
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I thought about this but was worried id damage something and I tsill wont be much better off because im changing the diff and the driveshafts just
fall off when all of the bols are removed. I dont want to remove all the suspension as well!
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carnut
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| posted on 2/4/05 at 04:52 PM |
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Ive managed to do it now, I ground off the heads but had to remove the diff from its mounts before I could slide the studs through the mounting
flange.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/4/05 at 07:46 AM |
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When you put it all back together, do the following! -
1) Get 24 M8 x 50 Caphead bolts (hexagon socket caps, in 12.9 grade material) and use these to bolt the shafts on.
2) Throw away the "washer pieces"
3) Torque the new bolts to 48 NM (a tad higher than Ford recommend, as long as you have the 12.9 grade blts they will be fine, did some checks
yesterday as I am rebuiding my grasser's shafts and the "Unbrako" brand bolts, (very good quality) lubed with moly grease,
didn't even yield until 65 NM!!!!!!!
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wilkingj
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| posted on 3/4/05 at 07:56 AM |
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Yup.. I threw them away, they are a bugger to get out, and trashed all my Torx bits, including a new quality one. my mates Snap-on one struggled, but
got them out.
All 12.9 Cap (hex) ones fitted now, and worth the money.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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carnut
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| posted on 3/4/05 at 03:09 PM |
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I bought a snap on T40 to do the job. Cost £16 though
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hector
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| posted on 3/4/05 at 08:05 PM |
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Hi all, its funny you should mention that as i am havin exactly the same problem here
Best i get me grinder out then!
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andyps
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| posted on 5/4/05 at 07:53 PM |
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When I took the back end apart on my donor I sprayed the bolts with WD40 everytime I thought about it. The whole assembly was left outside for a few
months, but everyone of the bolts came out OK, and my torx bit survived without problems. Don't know what everyone complains about
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 07:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by carnut
I bought a snap on T40 to do the job. Cost £16 though
So did I, in fact I bought two, and broke both, to then find that they don't guarantee these items because of the Ford driveshaft
"problem"
NEVER, NEVER, EVER PUT TORX BOLTS BACK IN WHEN YOU REBUILD IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
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Bob C
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 08:25 AM |
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When I got my driveshafts, I had the same problem - finally solved when I discovered the bolts were T45 size. Others disput this but it was definately
the case with mine. The t40 bit went in (a bit sloppy) and successfully undid most of them, I only discovered the awful truth in time to undo the the
last 2 awkward ones (having trashed my T40 bit!)
I'd never seen a Tx5 size before. The scrapyard lent me the tool to complete the job.
cheers
Bob
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JoelP
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| posted on 17/4/05 at 11:43 AM |
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well i dont have any torx thingies in that size, so i guess its grinder time for me!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 18/4/05 at 07:19 AM |
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Actually, on checking, it was a T45 bit that I was using! I broke 2 Snap-on ones!
I have taken a number of these rear ends apart over the years and I just automatically use the grinder now!
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