unixguy
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 01:54 AM |
|
|
Starting my 'blade
I have it wired up, all now seems correct. With the ignition on, the fuel pump pumps, I touch the two "start button" wires together and
the starter turns the engine over. However, it does not start.. I put a test meter on the wires going to the coils - nothing. I have
"bypassed" the clutch and side stand switches by twisting the ends of the wires together to complete a curcuit - is this the right way to
do it? Are there other things I'm missing?
Although I said I didn't get any current showing on the coils, please don't assume this is the problem, I may have been doing it wrong
:]
So, any suggestions as to what I should check/change/etc? I should note my engine is 1993 RRP.
Thanks :]
|
|
|
|
|
Brooky
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 06:06 AM |
|
|
its a long time since i did my wiring but dont the clutch and side stand wires need to be earthed rather than twisted together ?
But as usual i may be wrong.
|
|
|
shortie
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 06:27 AM |
|
|
Yep, they need to be earthed out the circuit, also the fuel pump relay is usually removed as this also stops ignition if not connected right.
Have a look at my wiring diagram which may help Indyblade wiring
diagram
Rich.
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 07:34 AM |
|
|
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=29995
www.plusnine.co.uk
|
|
|
unixguy
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 10:24 AM |
|
|
Thanks for the replies guys.
When you say I should earth those wires, which ones should go there? For example, the side stand has 3 wires, and I have two of them twisted together
to simulate the "up" position, according to Haynes. Should I just connect all three of those to earth, or what?
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 12:15 PM |
|
|
You oughta wire the side stand switch into a momentary button on the gear lever...
Superstock quick shifter style
Its a long time since I have done this (and not on a honda) but arent the clutch, sidestand and neutral switches all wired so that the combo has to be
correct for the engine to run?
On a yamaha you can start the bike and run it on the sidestand no problems as long as it is in neutral... when you put it in gear the engine stops,
unless the sidestand is now up...
Bit like a 1st floor landing light system..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 12:18 PM |
|
|
My engine and wiring loom are RRV (1997) but the CDI unit I have happens to be a later RRW (1998) which works fine but features an anti-theft system
which must be present or the CDI will not generate a spark. Simulate this device by fitting a 390 Ohm resistor in-line between the 12v supply and one
of the CDI unit pins. See http://www.dodgyroger.com/locost/RRWCDIunitwiring.pdf for a wiring diagram. If your engine won't start and you get no
spark, you may have a later CDI unit.
[Edited on 16/8/05 by G.Man]
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
unixguy
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 02:35 PM |
|
|
I'm pretty certain I have my wiring correct now:
Following the Haynes manual and replies, I have connected the green/green-white side stand wires to earth, closed the clutch switch and the neuteral
switch is to earth.
When I connect the battery, the fuel pump (an R1 carb model pump) sucks up fuel until the carbs are full and then stops (I assume it's pressure
sensiteive?) I have connected my multimeter to the wires going to the coils, and I don't see any charge going to them when I activate the
starter by means of the starter "button". Either I am not testing the coil wires correctly or the plugs are not sparking.
Am I trying to start my engine correctly? This is the procedure I have tried: I press the starter button (or rather, cross the two wires), the
engine then turns over on the starter, the carbs appear to be full, I pull the choke.. nothing happens.
Suggestions?
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 02:50 PM |
|
|
Take a plug out and put it to bare metal while you turn it over so you can actually see if there is a spark. That's what I did to check on my
ZX9R engine and found I only had a spark in neutral till I crossed the sidestand and clutch wires. I had to turn it over for a good minute to get it
to actually run so don't expect it to kick up straight away even if you have a spark.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
unixguy
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 03:58 PM |
|
|
I don't have a suitable tool to reach down the plug hole - can anyone suggest an accurate way of testing whether I'm getting current to
the plugs without actually taking one out?
|
|
|
nanosleep
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 04:23 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by unixguy
I don't have a suitable tool to reach down the plug hole - can anyone suggest an accurate way of testing whether I'm getting current to
the plugs without actually taking one out?
I'm not sure how the plug wires are done on that engine. Can you pull the wire off by hand? If so, just stick a screwdriver of the appropriate
size into the electrical connection where the plug would go. Then lay the screwdriver metal part so it touches the engine block (or other good
grounding point). You should see a spark and possibly hear a pop. The nice thing about screwdrivers (plastic handled only) is that you can hold it
in place without getting a nasty shock.
There's only two things you'll need to run: gas/air and spark. You can check the spark via the screwdriver method. I think you said the
carb bowls were getting pumped full. Are the jets possibly stoppped up? Open the throttle blades and look down into the carbs. Do they look wet
deep inside? If not try getting a small bottle of gasoline and squirt a little down into the carb barrel. After the squirt, if she cranks and runs
for a few seconds then you have carb stoppage. Be sure to set the bottle well away from the engine when cranking. You might get a free haircut
otherwise.
HTH
-Andy
2000 Mustang GT
2003 Mustang Cobra 450RWHP/450RWTQ
2004 ZX-10R
In progress: 67 Mustang with 520ci(8.6L) V8, 600HP estimated
|
|
|
colibriman
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 04:53 PM |
|
|
you have U2U...
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
unixguy
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 05:39 PM |
|
|
Colin, your the man! That sorted it out! Starts first time and runs great!
|
|
|
colibriman
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 05:49 PM |
|
|
cool....!
glad to be of help....!
have fun
Colin
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
Winston Todge
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 07:23 PM |
|
|
What sorted it then?
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 07:25 PM |
|
|
Dont you just hate it when they PM solutions rather than help people who might use the search function later
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
colibriman
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 07:28 PM |
|
|
haha....now now lads.....
did it over the phone ( )
It was the stop switch that hadn't been shorted out so there was no feed to the cdi or the coils....
need a bike engine? - www.colibriman.com
SVA ready Mk Indyblade possibly for sale.....if the offers good...!
|
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
|
Winston Todge
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 08:09 PM |
|
|
Hehee, thanks Colin, just curious...
Chris
|
|
|
G.Man
|
| posted on 16/8/05 at 09:15 PM |
|
|
Wicked, glad it was all resolved..
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
|
|
|
