jonbeedle
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| posted on 28/9/05 at 11:24 PM |
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Alternative uprights
What's the alternative to Cortina uprights. I may have ruined mine and as they seem to be as rare as rocking horse pooh I thought there must be
an alternative. I'd like to keep my Cortina hubs, discs and calipers as they are all new.
Cheers
Jon
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 12:40 AM |
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I started looking for a Hyundai Stellar and found an '88 one but I think the uprights were only the same on the '85-'86 models. Am I
right?
Cheers
Jon
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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timmy
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 01:56 AM |
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A couple of chaps over here in Oz have used LiteAce Toyota van uprights with some success. They may be a bit heavier than the corty ones, but they
have more modern brakes (some are even vented!).
The uprights from a Holden/Isuzu Gemini are also quite good, but they might be difficult to find over there.
The only prob with using alternative is trying to get the geometry right....
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locost_bryan
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 04:10 AM |
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quote:
The uprights from a Holden/Isuzu Gemini are also quite good, but they might be difficult to find over there.
Vauxhall Chevette/Opel Kadet(?) are Euro versions of Gemini 
Bryan Miller
Auckland NZ
Bruce McLaren - "Where's my F1 car?"
John Cooper - "In that rack of tubes, son"
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Mix
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 06:17 AM |
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If you don't mind me asking, what did you do to ruin the uprights ?
They may be recoverable.
Mick
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MikeR
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 08:28 AM |
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just about to ask the same question and maybe off to take the ruined ones off your hands.
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 11:18 AM |
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raceleda do uprights to replace cortina units
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iank
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 12:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mangogrooveworkshop
raceleda do uprights to replace cortina units
But they might put you over just the £250 promised by Ron 
Capri might be an alternative (used by Sylva on the Riot). Didn't early Sylva's use the Chevette uprights?
Another avenue worth investigating might be FWD uprights. I know GTM managed with driveshaftless mini ones on the coupe.
[Edited on 29/9/05 by iank]
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 01:18 PM |
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My cycle wing brackets bolt on using the top TRE. This means that the thread doesn't protrude enough once the locknut is fitted. So I had a
bright idea. I turned the nuts down to make half nuts. Still it wasn't enough. So I ground down the upright with an angle grinder and took too
much off. I underestimated the efficiency of the equipment I was using! Instead of it measuring 22.5mm it now measures 16.5mm. That's a lot of
meat to remove and I'm worried it may have weakened the upright. It looks strong enough but you can't afford to mess around too much with
a steering component, so I thought I'd get some new ones to be on the safe side (more expense) and then order some brackets which have an
alternative fixing method.
Cheers
Jon
quote:
Originally posted by Mix
If you don't mind me asking, what did you do to ruin the uprights ?
They may be recoverable.
Mick
[Edited on 29/9/05 by jonbeedle]
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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Mix
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 01:40 PM |
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That doesn't sound too bad on the face of things, I'll have a look at my untouched ones when I get home and post my opinion.
Mick
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Arthur Dent
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 02:30 PM |
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85-86 Hyundai Stellar is exactly the same as Cortina. After that they are struts.
'The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go
wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.' Douglas Adams
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MikeR
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 03:53 PM |
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if you do want to get rid of them - sling them my way, i might have a novel use for them.
I'm sure a few beer tokens will get slung back.
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Mix
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 04:29 PM |
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Ok (prepared to be shot down)
If you have taken the 6mm off of the top of the TRE attachment hole I think you could get away with it.
I say this because:
It is possible to file the upright into a smooth curve here to reduce stress raisers.
The section of the upright as it curves into the area where the TRE is attached will still be of a lesser or equal section to the area where the TRE
attaches. (ie you haven't reduced the section below what was already the smallest area)
The amount of metal you have removed is proportionally less as the hole is larger at the top than the bottom.
The upright was designed to take the loads imposed by a much heavier vehicle and not to be scrutinised often, if at all.
I would be confident enough to fit them and take it easy for a while and keep an eye on the TRE attachments. What you have is probably stronger than a
lot of alloy equivilents.
At the end of the day you will have to decide what you are happy with.
Mick
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Peteff
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 04:47 PM |
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Don't Westfield mill them down for the same reason, to put a bracket under them ?. I can't see there being any problem with the thickness
of metal you have left as long as the taper locks and doesn't show through your bracket. You could weld a 5mm plate on top and drill through it
to make it back up.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 05:38 PM |
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I ground the bottom of the TRE attachment hole!
quote:
Originally posted by Mix
Ok (prepared to be shot down)
If you have taken the 6mm off of the top of the TRE attachment hole I think you could get away with it.
I say this because:
It is possible to file the upright into a smooth curve here to reduce stress raisers.
The section of the upright as it curves into the area where the TRE is attached will still be of a lesser or equal section to the area where the TRE
attaches. (ie you haven't reduced the section below what was already the smallest area)
The amount of metal you have removed is proportionally less as the hole is larger at the top than the bottom.
The upright was designed to take the loads imposed by a much heavier vehicle and not to be scrutinised often, if at all.
I would be confident enough to fit them and take it easy for a while and keep an eye on the TRE attachments. What you have is probably stronger than a
lot of alloy equivilents.
At the end of the day you will have to decide what you are happy with.
Mick
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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Peteff
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| posted on 29/9/05 at 07:30 PM |
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Build it back up, you haven't altered the taper so it shouldn't make any difference where you took it from. As long as the nut locks the
taper into the hole they should be strong enough at 16mm thick. It should work with a thick washer making up the difference.
 
Rescued attachment tre.jpg
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Rorty
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 06:34 AM |
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You don't need to hunt down rare/expensive uprights; just make your own!
 
Rescued attachment upright_01.jpg
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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Rorty
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 06:37 AM |
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Birdseye view (steering turned).
 
Rescued attachment upright_02.jpg
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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MikeR
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 05:48 PM |
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couple of questions,
1) where do you get the spindle from?
2) why not make it out of one veritcal peice of steel instead of an angles piece (is this to make it the same as the cortina bit) (edit - 5 hours
later, i remember, rod end)
3) where did you get the bits that the ...... arrghh, forgot the word, the bit that you've used instead of a transit drag link?
4) how do you know it will stand up to the strain of road use? ie not checked every 30 miles.
[Edited on 1/10/05 by MikeR]
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MikeR
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 05:48 PM |
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ok, i can't count!
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Rorty
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 09:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
couple of questions,
1) where do you get the spindle from?
2) why not make it out of one veritcal peice of steel instead of an angles piece (is this to make it the same as the cortina bit)
3) where did you get the bits that the ...... arrghh, forgot the word, the bit that you've used instead of a transit drag link?
4) how do you know it will stand up to the strain of road use? ie not checked every 30 miles.
- I either turn conventional-shaped or parallel spindles for my own custom hubs, but you could use trailer stub axles as you're using Cortina
hubs.
- It's easier to weld the stub axle through a member at 90 degrees to it, but it's also partly to have a simple datum to attach the
calliper bracket to.
- Rod ends? From any bearing retailer.
- In the old days, testing and these days, analysis. I used to make heavier ones but soon whittled them down. The ones in the pic are overkill and
heavy for production simplicity and are OK for a 1-1/2 ton Ford pickup; they're incredibly strong. Top shelf ones are even lighter with bolster
washers around the bolt holes for strength.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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MikeR
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 09:49 AM |
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As usual, answers provoke more questions,
1) For the hole builder, wouldn't it be better trying to source bolt on spindles or do you think its easy to weld them together (thinking the
average home builder has prob max 150 amps.)
2) ignore the question, i wasn't thinking when i asked it, forgot about trying to get the wheel to camber in corners.
3) I wasn't meaning the rod end itself, but the bit the rod end is going through between the two vertical bits of steel. I'd normally use
a bolt and lots of washers / spacer.
4) Any chance of supplying the spec ie thickness / grade of steel used?
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Rorty
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 09:33 PM |
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- I doubt if you would find any bolt-on stub axles and the cost of turning aa thread on a plain one would far exceed the cost of having someone weld
one on (if the DIY welder wasn't up to the job).
Incidently, I turn down the back of the stub axle to form a 16mm dia. spigot which goes right through the entire box tube and I then rose-weld it to
the other side of the RHS. This anchors the stub securely and really beefs up the whole upright.
- OK
- Ah, sorry. Those are ball extenders! They extend the ball bearing and effectively increase the bearing surface and thus the angle of operability.
They also have a convenient spacer built-in. The extenders also step down the size of the bolt through them, normally by just one size, so you'd
need to remember that when drilling the holes in the uprights.
I usually make them up for the job in hand from stainless steel. See pic below.
- No worries; the RHS is nothing more than common 50 x 50 x 3 mild steel box tube and the stub axles vary but IIRC, the grade you'd use in the
UK is something like EN16. Many trailer stub axles aren't even as good as that yet they hold up OK.
 
Rescued attachment ball_extender_01.jpg
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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stevebubs
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 10:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iank
Capri might be an alternative (used by Sylva on the Riot). Didn't early Sylva's use the Chevette uprights?
Yep - and then they moved onto chopped down Mk II Esort units.
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gazza285
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 10:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rorty
I doubt if you would find any bolt-on stub axles
Could you not use the VAG ones that youmentioned the other day?
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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