JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 01:34 PM |
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wonky wheels and things.
been fiddling with the car. You may recall ive complained about bump steer on several occations, and other anomalies. I thought i try and sort it out
bit by bit. First i took the gaitors off the rack. I knew the knuckles were too far apart (ie, the rack needed shortening), but heres a picture of how
bad it is.
 
Rescued attachment bumpsteer1.JPG
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 01:37 PM |
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i reckon the rack want about 4" out the middle, fortunately ns dev made me a sierra quick rack that is the right length.
I jumped up and down on the front of the car and i could see the wheels pointing in and out, by about 10 degrees (around an inch at the front from
extreme to extreme). Thats bad!
Checked the ride height, its sat with nearly 6" under the sump, so i dropped it an inch. This unfortunately makes the springs loose at full
droop, i really need some shorter shocks, the spares i have have bushes too big to go into the old brackets. Two more pic.
 
Rescued attachment drop1.JPG
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 01:38 PM |
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and after. Pimped!
 
Rescued attachment lowered.JPG
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 01:38 PM |
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this one is just a photo on full droop, obviously it never saw this on the road/track but it shows how far out the wheels went! the front left wheel
was just about square when it was level!
[Edited on 13/2/06 by JoelP]
 
Rescued attachment fulldroop.JPG
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Dusty
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 02:27 PM |
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You are addressing the rack width but need also to look at vertical location of the steering knuckles. Pic below is one way of finding a better
location verticaly. (Fore and aft has minimal effect within reasonable limits)
 
Rescued attachment suspgeo.jpg
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Avoneer
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 04:40 PM |
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And then there's all that positive castor to sort.
IIRC, the top joint is in London and the bottom one in Scotland 
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 04:57 PM |
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lol i took it out after changing the height, the self-uncentering is still lethal! I need some more adjustable bones!
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zilspeed
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 06:35 PM |
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Joel
I remember coming into the pits at Knockhill once and being told by someone that they could see the bump steer happening as the car went light after
the compression in the track just before the start finish straight.
I have to say, I appreciate this more now than I ever did before. I've been having a right good look at a fisher fury recently, and the rack
position is much more akin to what is suggested by the more learned (than me) posters above. In respect of both rack height and position
longitudinally.
Anyway - you're making a good go if it all - well done.
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 06:44 PM |
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cheers zil  the car deserves the attention, it sounds wonderful on song best thing i ever bought! 
its looking like it getting rebodied at some time. Then maybe reengined too. Then perhaps retrimed, and to finish, refinshed
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mookaloid
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 07:21 PM |
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Looks like the front wing still needs refitting too
Cheers
Mark
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 07:32 PM |
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unsprung weight and all that
my luck they wont let me on track without it!
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Lightning
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| posted on 13/2/06 at 08:33 PM |
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6" under the sump? its a 4x4
Steve
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NS Dev
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 09:21 AM |
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Hi Joel, take it that the rack is ok?
If your springs are coming loose on full droop, there are a few alternatives.
Firstly are your springs too stiff? Sounds like they could be, but if not, you can get flat coil assister springs from various places (mine were from
demon thieves for convenience in a hurry) and they are cheap enough and hold the springs on their platforms with a couple of lb pressure, I use em on
the back of the grasser due to the light spring rates and large travel used.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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JoelP
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| posted on 16/2/06 at 11:22 PM |
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that rack is beautiful nat, just got it on tonight! had a mild panic when the old comumn downlink wouldnt go back in, but managed to knock up a new
one in a few hours! Added a new u/j in the middle, used a metal on metal 'bearing' to hold in in the right place, welded onto the engine
mount. Bodge, me?
It turns well quick, just need a pair or rodends and some thread lock tomorrow, should be ready to roll for sunday!
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