James
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 posted on 15/4/06 at 12:31 PM |
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Bleeding Brakes Problems
It's all gone wrong!
Any chance of some hints as to the problem please?
Hardware: Sierra girling m/cyl, new Sierra callipers front and rear.
History: Successfully bled them about 18mths ago and drove the car. Then noticed some fluid weeping from the rear of the m/cyl into the footwell. So
bought a kit and rebuilt the m/cyl.
This weekend: I've rebuilt the m/cyl, swapped the front callipers round (to the correct way!) and re-connected the flexis after doing the
bodywork.
So all in all there was probably quite a lot of air in there.
I bought a Halfords bleed kit (bearing inside tube) 18mths ago.
Now, however much fluid I put through I'm still getting lots of air bubbles. I've got through nearly 5 litres of brake fluid! I
can't think where air can be getting in (as I'm keeping the m/cyl topped up!!!). But with 5 litres gone through the front 2 callipers it
should be ok now shouldn't it?
Oh, and to top it off, my chest hurts now from pumping the pedal all day yesterday!
Good for the pecs though I guess! 
Any tips appreciated,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 12:40 PM |
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Get a Gunsons eezibleed kit , will bleed in seconds if master cylinder is working
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 12:52 PM |
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Is this problem on both circuits from the m'cyl?
Are you getting a brake pedal at any time?
Are you only undoing one bleed nipple at a time?
You can just use a plain piece of pipe to bleed the brakes as long as the end is under the brake fluid in the bleedin' container, I dont always
trust these funny gizmos
You can then get someone to pump the pedal until there are no more bubbles, then get them to pump and hold the pedal on the floor while you tighten
the bleed nipple, then should be OK , if the fluid has not gone too low no air can get in.
Another possible prob could be if you have assembled the m/cyl incorrectly.
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bob
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 12:59 PM |
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James
If the M/S repair is not at fault i have a Gunsons Ezee bleed kit you can borrow,i'll be back from Weston-i'm having a-mare sunday night
if you want to pop over monday at the breakfast meet.
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johnemms
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 01:23 PM |
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I can vouch for the ezebleed kit ... after years of suffering with shouting 'on .. off'!!! I bought one last month - did all 4 corners in
about 10 mins 
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Humbug
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 03:04 PM |
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Can't speak for Eezibleed, but I just used something I got from Halfords called Vizibleed and it worked fine (he says, crossing his fingers
until testing the brakes on the road )
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EViS
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 03:06 PM |
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Completely off topic, but James could you check your U2U please?
Thanks  .
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britishtrident
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 06:13 PM |
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Any bleed tubes or nipples that have a one way valve in can cause problems with some master cylinders which are anything other than the old
fashioned Girling or Lockheed types - ATE (Teeves) master cylinders can be particularly diificult to bleed,
Eezi bleed is a good tool especially for Teeeves systems as it keeps the seals hard against the cylinder walls preventing air being drawn on the
return stroke. When I use an eezibleed I always use a pipe nip clamp on flexy hose to control the bleeding. Obviously this only applies to proper
OEM type brakes hoses.
One other thing to remember is that even with an eezibleed the pedal will need a couple of strokes to ensure no air is trapped in the master cylinder.
Also I would reccommend avoiding Castrol "Response" fluid it is very viscose and tends to trap air bubbles for a long while.
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James
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 07:05 PM |
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Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
I'm gonna go out and give it another go for awhile.
See what happens!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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