Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Castor Angle
Tom Beattie

posted on 22/5/06 at 03:49 PM Reply With Quote
Castor Angle

What would be a reasonable castor angle to aim for on what will be essentially a road car, I want it responsive but not super twitchy. The book quotes about 5.3 should it be abit more laid back? opinions please.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
BKLOCO

posted on 22/5/06 at 03:52 PM Reply With Quote
5.5 degrees is about right for caster angle these cars will never self centre particularly well due to the low weight on the front end.





Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Tom Beattie

posted on 22/5/06 at 03:57 PM Reply With Quote
You'll see im new to this but reading this forum the consensus of opinion would appear to suggest an offset on top ball joint of 22-25mm using sierra uprights, by my reckoning on a book chassis this gives castor of 7.69. however its a while since I've done any trigonometry so this could be wrong. I'm just going to work out 5.5.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Tom Beattie

posted on 22/5/06 at 03:58 PM Reply With Quote
Maybe I'm misunderstanding the offset measurement, is it top balljoint offset from centreline?
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Tom Beattie

posted on 22/5/06 at 04:00 PM Reply With Quote
If my trig is right then to achieve 5.5 you need offset of 17.8mm. Hows that sound?
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
russbost

posted on 22/5/06 at 05:00 PM Reply With Quote
Most race car run about 3 -5 deg castor, road cars run anything up to 12. More castor means more self centreing. To check your calculatins are roughly correct, you can use an adjustable spirit level, or a spirit level & a protractor.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
BKLOCO

posted on 22/5/06 at 05:20 PM Reply With Quote
The problem is the more caster you build in the heavier the steering becomes (amongst other things). This isn't a problem with power steering but can be with manual steering and a small wheel.





Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!!

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
907

posted on 22/5/06 at 06:31 PM Reply With Quote
You can only speak as you find.

I have a light engine, set well back.

1mm toe in, slight neg camber, and 20psi.

My first bones, to the book, didn't centralize at all.

Remade them with 22mm offset, and now the car sort of starts to centralize.
At 45mph I can take my hands off the wheel, as long as I don't hit any bumps.

I think if I made a 3rd set I'd go 25mm, but like I said, light engine, well back.

Paul G






View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Bob C

posted on 22/5/06 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
When I looked at this I decided uncle ron had made a error in his trig resulting in 50% the caster angle he was aiming for.
He built all the caster into the top wishbone. he made the balljoint to back distance 3/4" less than balljoint to front distance. And thought his balljoint was 3/4" forward of the centre. It isn't - it's 3/8" forward of centre.
And henceforth a generation of locosts have had trouble self centring at SVA!
I expect the problem is made worse by the huge scrub radius of the cortina uprights
cheers
Bob

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
pucksaver

posted on 22/5/06 at 07:34 PM Reply With Quote
More castor also means that as you turn the wheel the tires will gain more camber. Does this affect handling or anything?
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
russbost

posted on 22/5/06 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
Yes, obviously, it's all a compromise between driveability & max performance, for SVA I'd have plenty of castor & v.little camber, change it around afterwards.
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
David Jenkins

posted on 23/5/06 at 07:18 AM Reply With Quote
You have to remember that these cars are very light, so 7 or 8 degrees of castor still allows very easy steering.

My car has around 22mm of offset - it self-centres well enough, but still steers very well (VERY well!)

David






View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
Tom Beattie

posted on 23/5/06 at 07:40 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks folks, the more info and opinions I can get just now the less chance there is of me making an a**e of the car and myself at a later date.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 23/5/06 at 07:46 AM Reply With Quote
Yep steering on a Locost is never going to be heavy its is light and rear wheel drive --- in the days when men were men we drove cars weighing over 2 tons without power steering, even the largest trucks and buses only got power steering in the 1960s.

A Leyland Octopus -- power steering whats that ?

photo from http://www.daves-classic-transport.co.uk/

[Edited on 23/5/06 by britishtrident] Rescued attachment l04.jpg
Rescued attachment l04.jpg

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.