piddy
|
| posted on 2/6/06 at 05:14 PM |
|
|
Rear brake calipers
Hello All.
I'm using Sierra calipers front and rear and have previously bleed the brakes and set the hand brake (using the old disks). This all worked fine
apart from one of the joints leaking.
After sorting the leaking joint I bleed the brakes again and fitted the new disks
However the rear disks were a very tight fit and the caliper needed to be hammered on.
These are so tight that the wheels won't turn.
I've re-adjusted the handbrake so the cable at the caliper is loose. I've also tried loosening the the bleed nipple and the
pipe/connection supping the caliper to no affect.
Is there a way to slacken the pads off?
how do you fit new disks and pads when the caliper has auto adjusted it self?
|
|
|
|
|
piddy
|
| posted on 2/6/06 at 05:40 PM |
|
|
Thanks.
Is there a tool for this task?
which direction do they wind in?
|
|
|
ReMan
|
| posted on 2/6/06 at 06:44 PM |
|
|
Yep angle grinder C-spanner worked for me!
Has a very fine thread , so lots of turning for not much movement
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 2/6/06 at 10:20 PM |
|
|
You will find that they screw in far easier if you can get a "G" cranp on them, and then turn, you need to keep tightening the cramp as
you go. Easier to do than explain. Cheers Chippy
|
|
|
blueshift
|
| posted on 4/6/06 at 02:03 AM |
|
|
the thread is actually quite coarse, about 3mm per revolution, but things tend to slip around a bit thanks to all the springs and bobbins in there.
just don't force the piston in hard without turning it, it will knacker parts of the auto adjustment mechanism.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 4/6/06 at 10:52 AM |
|
|
As blueshift says -- also remember the handbrake needs to be fully off -- best to slacken the cable off a good bit
|
|
|
