R1 STRIKER
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| posted on 11/6/06 at 10:22 PM |
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I never learn!! Diff change
Why do I always leave things to the last minute! 4 days till the ferry leaves for le mans and I decide to go for it and change my 3.92 diff im my R1
striker for the 3.38 sat on my work bench. Everything starts smoothly. To my amazement my drive shafts have the right size splines. So it's
drive shafts out, fuel tank out, prop off and there we go. One diff. Put the new diff in but have to go to work so fill it with oil and leave it. Go
back today and it's emptied it's oil out of the front seal  .
Now I could leave diff in and replace seal but the way my lucks going I wouldn't be able to get one in time. so I've just spent half the
afternoon putting the old diff back in
Anybody know how difficult it is to replace this seal? Anything else I should check whilst doing this? (eg. bearings etc). Will have to do it all over
again when I get back.
Thanks
Ben.
and about to be scrap striker if anything else goes wrong this week!!
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Avoneer
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| posted on 11/6/06 at 11:18 PM |
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Not to hard.
Undo the nut, remove the prop flange, pop out the old seal, pop in the new one, do it all back up.
If I can do it without any leaks, anyone can.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 12/6/06 at 03:46 AM |
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The hardest part is getting the old seal out.
Mr Haynes says "just lever it out with an old screw driver"
I had to beat seven shades of c**p out of a pry bar to get mine out and when it did finally move it shot out and hit me in the eye!!!
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!! 
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skidude88
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| posted on 12/6/06 at 11:48 AM |
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You have my sympathy’s - Discovered mine was knacked last Sat - thanks to the power of Locostbuilders and some top mates, loan one sourced and in
within 24hrs
I've spent too much time and effort not to be on that ferry Wednesday night
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R1 STRIKER
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| posted on 12/6/06 at 12:02 PM |
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what ferry are you on? We're on 11.30ish from newhaven.
Ben.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/6/06 at 12:59 PM |
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Caution !!!!
not just a case of undoing the nut !
(1) Mark pinnion shaft, nut flange shaft so you can refit them in exactly the same position.
(2) Put on handbrake so diff cannot turn
(3) Undo nut counting the exact number of turns.
(4) Remove flange & renew seal.
(5) Refit flange in the same realtive position on shaft.
(6) Refit nut counting the exact number of turns, line up marks so nut ends up at exactly the angular postion relative to the shaft and flange as it
was in when you started.
Too
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wilkingj
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| posted on 12/6/06 at 06:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BKLOCO
The hardest part is getting the old seal out.
Mr Haynes says "just lever it out with an old screw driver"
I had to beat seven shades of c**p out of a pry bar to get mine out and when it did finally move it shot out and hit me in the eye!!!
Ahh buy a Seal Extractor. Costs less than a fiver from Sealey / Clarke / machine Mart.
Its a T shaped tool with the top of the "T" looking like a double ended Eagles beak.
Makes seal removal a doddle.
Whats more they are cheap to buy.
Linky Thing
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/6/06 at 08:03 PM |
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Personally I have never need anything other than a screwdriver to hook oil seals out.
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 13/6/06 at 06:57 AM |
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I did mine a few weeks ago...
http://www.mnrvortxr1.co.uk/buildpgtwo.htm
Not a hard job but just a bit fiddly if everythings in the car.
trident just curious as to why it's so important to locate the pinion flange in exactly the same place? If someone had lifted the diff out to
replace it wouldn't it have to be placed in a different orientation anyway?
Thanks for any help,
Chris.
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