02GF74
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 07:57 AM |
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experience of changing from mineral to synthetic...
anyone notice differences when changing from minerla to synthetic engine oil? namely stuff like lower running temperature:
(is synthetic ok on older engines like crossflow?)
bumpf from red line oil
quote:
Better High Temperature Lubrication.
The polymeric viscosity additives used in petroleum and synthetic petroleum oils contain very large molecules which suffer from thermal cracking at
high temperatures. They form organic acids, corrosive to metals and varnish deposits. These deposits reduce the ability of the metal to transfer
heat, gum up the ring area causing ring sticking and blow-by and further overheat the oil. The high stability of Red Line® not only reduces oil
consumption, but has a significant effect on bore lubrication, especially in the upper ring area which will see temperatures in excess of 300oC,
temperatures where only the polyol esters can give excellent lubrication.
Wear Reduction.
Red Line® oil provides a much reduced wear rate compared to petroleum oils or other synthetics. The reduced friction of the polyol ester basestock
means less heat is generated, so temperatures are reduced, wear is reduced and more power is transferred to the wheels.
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graememk
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 08:22 AM |
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i use it in my vectra just because it makes the service every 20k lol lazy eh ?
i'm told they rev free'er
[Edited on 20/7/06 by graememk]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 08:32 AM |
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A lot of the claims made for synthetic are utter tosh. It certainly is a tougher oil and can withstand higher temperatures etc. but even with mineral
oil there should be minimal friction in the bearings if the oil pressure and bearing cleanaces are correct. I always use it on my MR2 turbo and my
Civic VTi mainly because they are quite stressed engines and I tend to thrash them!
The typical viscosities that synthetic is easily available in is too low for the xflow IMO (e.g. 5W30 or 0W30). You can get higher viscosity
synthetic, but you'll probably have to order it.
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tks
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 09:49 AM |
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mhh
i tought that it wasn´t suited because of materials choices on old engines, cast iron etc.
also syntetic has adictives like teflon wich wasn´t good for those materials.. i would do it.
wy change if it works fine now_
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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02GF74
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 11:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tks
wy change if it works fine now
no plans for me to change anything although I did use in in my 850 T5.
someone posted on another forum that having it in their rv8 made it run cooler, hence asking.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 11:27 AM |
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I've said this many times, but...
We've run full synthetic for many years in my youngsters grasstrack mini's. They get completely thrashed, with gear changes at 7k+, and
regularly see 7k+ at the ends of the small straights.
Never had an engine failure, and when freshening up in the winter, there have never been any signs of adverse wear or corrosion which could be
attributed to the oil. If anything, quite the opposite.
Remember, these are 1950's technology A series engines. Cast iron and all that old stuff.
This belief that old engines need mineral oil is entirely uninformed heresay.( I was gonna say CRAP, but some may find that offensive.  )
Cheers,
Syd.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 01:21 PM |
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Ony thing you have to watch is really old engines with natural rubber oils seals if run on pure sythetic -- the oil seals shrink.
Synthetics just don't degrade the way mineral oil does and the oil and engine internals stay very much cleaner, they don't form varnishes
so the pistons, piston rings and valve stems have a much easier time.
In the Rover M16, T16 and K engines the difference running Mobile 1 0w/40 as opposed to convetional 10W/40 can be heard and felt, on a cold morning
the hydraulic tappets quieten instantly on starting instead of taking about 20 seconds, and the engine is much more responsive and feels more powrful
from a cold start.
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