Indymike
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:00 AM |
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removing track rod ends
Okay, I need to remove the track rod ends from my track rods so I can put the extension piece in between. But the bl**dy things won't come off!
I've already put lots of WD40 on them and left them to soak for a while, but still can't move them or the lock nut.
Any ideas?
Build manual? What build manual?
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mike smith1
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:09 AM |
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Loads of heat, swearing and brute force. get them warm or they wont budge! a good pair of stilsons is of an advantage.
Mike
[Edited on 19/9/06 by mike smith1]
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02GF74
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:14 AM |
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there should be a flat on the tre so using the right sized spanne, you should be able to undo the lock nut. getting rid off the tre may be harder as
you would have to grip the track rod with mole grips or use a vice very hard resulting in some damage.
this my leave weaknesses in the track rod that may fai in the future
unless it is an unsual rack, you can buy replacement tre but not the track rods (e.g. mk2 escort).
if heatiing the tre does not shift it, then mr grinder needs to come out - I'll bet if you remove enough metal before you break through to the
threded part, it will have weakened its grip and heat/spanners should do it.
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StevieB
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:35 AM |
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You can do all of that, or just buy some new ones. I've just got a new set of TRE's for £15 and the rods for £12 each + VAT. Nice and
shiney, no effort required, look better and will last longer - all for reasonably cheap!
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Indymike
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:36 AM |
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I already tried using spanners, one on the flattend part of the TRE and one on the lock nut but ...no go. Then I applied brute force with a big hammer
to one of the spanners with the result that one track rod is now bent  . Guess that means a trip to the scrappy for a replacement one!
I'll try the heat method and if all else fails the grinder will come out.
Would a powerfull hairdryer give enough heat or do I need something more 'industrial'?
Build manual? What build manual?
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mike smith1
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:49 AM |
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More industrial, blow torch should do it.
Mike
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fesycresy
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 08:59 AM |
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Two pairs of stillsons, this WILL work !
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 09:35 AM |
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I had one sierra one a while back that would NOT shift no matter what I did to it.
I got as far as grinding down till I was just touching the threads in a line down one side and two 2ft stilsons would still not more it at all!!!!
ended up grinding down to the threads all the way round, then the stilsons just sheared the end off!!!!
had to pick out the remaining threads with a scriber after getting them red hot!
thats the worst one I have ever had!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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emsfactory
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 10:46 AM |
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Make up an electrolysis bath. It may have rusted up on the inside.
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trextr7monkey
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 11:53 AM |
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Soak in Wd 40 overnight, heat up next morning with blow torch, while still hot spray in more wd 40- gets sucked in by capillary action (and looks
veryi mpressive to onlookers - Fred Dibnah uses steam power to release awkward nut) then it should come off with the big stilsons and long
spanners
If it is really chopped up I have a spare knocking about somewhere.....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)
Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 11:55 AM |
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Or soak it in boric acid (not as nasty as it sounds - you can buy it in powder form in old-fashioned chemists). It's the sort of stuff you can
put your hands in without harm (within sensible limits).
Takes a while, but it dissolves iron oxide (red & black). One thing - oil the piece as soon as you've cleaned it up, as it'll start
rusting before your eyes! 
David
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02GF74
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 11:56 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
You can do all of that, or just buy some new ones. I've just got a new set of TRE's for £15 and the rods for £12 each + VAT.
yep that is fine if ytou can get them; I could find nobody, including ford, that sells mk2 escort track rods.
also when fitting new track rods, you need to drill out the pin (well on mk2 escort rack anyway) then set the preload; not a big deal but time.
oh, I was going to say donl;t do mad with the spanners but one bent track rod later seems you have done that,. oh well....
which rack is it? if mk2 escort, I have one going cheap, it has one knackered track rod end - or else raldes do new ones.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 12:19 PM |
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1st -- wire brush it -- best using a wire brush in an electric drill or grinder.
Then Heat allow to cool slightly and soak in Plus-Gas pentrating oil -- then repeat heat cool Plus-Gas cycle a few of times. Reheat and try to undo
when hot.
Remember a good way to apply quick local heat is to use the MIG to lay a bead of weld.
All else fails carefuly angle grind it off.
[Edited on 19/9/06 by britishtrident]
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Guinness
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| posted on 19/9/06 at 06:25 PM |
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I have to agree with the angry grinder method. I tried heat, penetrating oil, brute force, swearing, combinations of any of the above, knuckles,
blood etc and they were well stuck.
Ended up cutting them lengthways almost down to the threads, front and back and then prized them apart.
Mike
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